MacBook Pro 16" 2019 Vervanging van het scherm

I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.

If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.

For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.

Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).

Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.

Read the comments section at the bottom of the article before proceeding with the repair. It is unnecessary to remove the logic board. I actually removed the 45mm plastic bar to enable the cables to slip out then in. It is only there to frustrate repairers!

Mine has T3 screws also.

The annoying thing here is that there IS ROOM, apple easily could have used normal T6 screws for this. There is NO reason to use P2 except solely to make this difficult. That is the only reason.

This was a finicky step, but tweezers are your friend getting those antenna cables back through on re-assembly. For this step in particular (but also for most steps), the technique I use to screw the screws back in is to align the screw with the hole and turn the screw counter-clockwise until I feel a click. Then I got clockwise. It helps to make sure the threads are aligned.

It appears that not only I stripped some screws, I also stripped my screwdriver (which is why my last three screws all stripped).

Here are two tips if you find yourself underequiped and stuck, like me:

1.) If you manage to unscrew all the screws on one side, you might be able to squeeze the display cable under the antena bar by bending it. This is untested, so I don't know how risky this is. (I damage an actual antenna while detaching the antenna bar from a stripped screw on one side, so I went straight to option 2.).)

2.) If during you can't remove the antenna bar without damage, don't despair: these antenna parts are super cheap on ebay (£3.50). I used my favourite selection of blunt tools to pry the antenna out, which was much more satisfying. This may be even cheaper than buying super glue to remove the stripped screw, which isn't even gurranteed to work.

That’s a great idea Mel! I had to replace the display twice because the first one had a dead pixel. When I got to this step I realized that the shortest of the cables didn’t come back through (it slid under the bid band) and so I missed connecting that back in. Wi-Fi and Bluetooth seemed to work fine without it, but I’m glad to get it right the second time.

Any advice on where to find a replacement of these screws? Somehow during disassembly I lost one of them and am having a horrific time finding a replacement.

@jsheputis I can swear I only have three of these screws also. I disassembled two macbooks, a donor and a recipient, and I think both of them only had three of these screws (both were missing the rightmost one). In case I'm imagining things, can anyone confirm? If you only have three screws during reassembly, leave out the rightmost one.