Nintendo Switch Vervanging van de digitizer

Geschreven door: Craig Lloyd

Reacties: 199

Nintendo Switch Vervanging van de digitizer

Moeilijkheid

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Tijd vereist

1 - 2 uren

Inleiding

Gebruik deze handleiding om een beschadigde of kapotte digitizer in de Nintendo Switch gameconsole te vervangen.

Let op: Als het scherm niet meer werkt, zul je waarschijnlijk het LCD-scherm moeten vervangen in plaats van de digitizer.

Let op: Deze procedure omvat het verwijderen van het warmteschild en het koellichaam. De thermische pasta zal van beide onderdelen—alsook van de CPU—moeten worden verwijderd en ook opnieuw moeten worden aangebracht voordat je het warmteschild en het koellichaam opnieuw installeert.

Je kunt deze reparatie voltooien zonder het koellichaam en de gamekaartlezer te verwijderen, maar dit maakt het loskoppelen en weer aansluiten van de lintkabel van het LCD-scherm een stuk moeilijker. Houd dit in je achterhoofd bij het uitvoeren van deze reparatie.

Gereedschap

Onderdelen

Nintendo Switch (2017 HAC-001) Digitizer Front Panel

Stap 1

Zorg dat console en de controllers volledig zijn uitgeschakeld voordat je met deze reparatie begint.
Druk de kleine ronde knop aan de achterkant van de Joy Con-controller in en houd deze ingedrukt.
Schuif je controller, terwijl je de knop nog steeds ingedrukt houdt, omhoog.

Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.

Ina Barz -

backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

do not watch the video! i broke the metal shielding on my switch because they didn't mention a screw!!!

Macro Man -

Stap 2

Blijf de Joy-Con omhoog schuiven totdat deze volledig van de console verwijderd is.
Herhaal ditzelfde proces bij de andere Joy-Con.

Stap 3

Gebruik een Y00-schroevendraaier of -bitje om de vier 6.3 mm lange schroeven die het achterste paneel bevestigen los te schroeven.
Zorg dat je, tijdens deze reparatie, bijhoudt welke schroeven waar vandaan komen, zodat je zeker weet dat ze op de juiste plek terug geplaatst worden.

Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

cday - 05/06/21

I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

Joe -

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

nin10doh -

I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

Banjomanperson -

I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

Pifase -

My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.

AndrewDaPro -

This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.

AndrewDaPro -

I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.

J LWsMommy -

what to do if your screw is stripped??

suru -

I haven't tried neither solutions that I am gonna propose here but

1. Poor some Isopropyl Alcohol, one small drop will do, get a piece of cotton (not any clothing) and dip it in the Isopropyl Alcohol, apply and then try to get a grip with tweezers and turn it out

OR (I do not reccomend it since it can cause huge damage if done wrong)

2. Grab a small drill and drill through the screw. Keep in mind; the screw is very small.

If you do one of these and it goes wrong, I am not responsible for that.

DongComArts -

I had to file down the point of the y00 bit. As it came, I was not able to get the back screws out. It would just slip in the screw.

Dave -

Y1.5 is correct, perfect fit.

Orpheus -

this is so difficult the screwdriver doesnt help AT ALL

Issa - 29/01/25

One of my screws was unremovable, so I gently turned the cover so the full place was available and that worked.

FonZ wayne -

Stap 4

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier of -bitje om de volgende schroeven te verwijderen waarmee het achterpaneel is bevestigd:
Eén 2.5 mm lange schroef aan de bovenkant van het toestel.
Twee 2.5 mm lange schroeven aan de onderkant van het toestel.
Om te voorkomen dat deze schroeven, die strak vastgedraaid zijn, strippen of doordraaien, zul je een stevig neerwaarste kracht moeten zetten, langzaam te werk moeten gaan en gebruik moeten maken van een andere JIS 000- of PH 000-schroevendraaier als de schroeven niet los willen komen.

Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

Thanks

Nemysis - 27/03/21

The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

Craig Lloyd - 29/03/21

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

david brown - 28/04/21

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Brooklyn Gardner - 07/05/21

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

cday - 05/06/21

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

Benjamin Fritz -

If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.

claudio ocano -

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

Jaxon Lee -

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

Richard Aguirre -

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

Shawn Spivey -

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Florian Kraupa -

I just came here to also confirm and say thanks to Florian for the tip. This saved me a lot of time and frustration.

Jon Nielsen -

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

Jason Lane -

These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

Susannah Carter -

Der Tausch von Akku (separate Anleitung) und Lüfter ging einfach vonstatten. Die Anleitung ist echt gut und leicht verständlich. Man sollte aber gewohnt sein, mit extrem kleinen Anschlüssen, Schrauben und Platinen zu arbeiten, da alles da drin recht klein ausgelegt ist und keine Toleranz für grobschlächtiges Arbeiten erlaubt! Meine Switch ist nun wieder wie neu :) - Danke iFixit!

The swapping of battery (separate instruction) and fan was fairly manageable. The instructions are easy to understand. One should be used to handle with extremely finnicky connectors, screws and circuits as the components are really small and do not allow any tolerance for rough handling at all! My Switch is good as new again :) - Thank you iFixit!

gerhardkoschany -

My original switch bought on launch day does not have any of these screws. I'm guessing they fell out since the plastic tabs they attach to are broken. FYI, in case anyone else does not have these screws...

Michael Crook -

same here. one screw was completely absent on mine, and the other two couldn't be put back. I probably broke one of the tabs while reassembling the device. it still works fine, but I don't really like how loose the casing feels now.

Evan Newman -

Stap 5

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier of -bitje om de twee 3.8 mm lange middelste schroeven aan de zijkanten van het toestel (een aan beide zijden) te verwijderen.

I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

mrhoyt - 04/03/21

Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

Craig Lloyd - 05/03/21

Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

Ryan Quinn - 22/05/21

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

mrhoyt - 05/03/21

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

Federico Zivolo - 21/04/21

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

Nick -

My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

Cynthia Hyland -

I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

Raymond Garrison -

after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.

Steve T -

One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!

carolaclavo -

i managed to get out one screw by putting a bit of paper over it which gave the screwdriver something to grip. The other side just won't budge and gets worse the more i try.

Steve T -

000 is too small, PH00 is right. Incorrect bit size will strip screws.

Orpheus -

Stap 6

Gebruik je vinger om de standaard aan de achterkant van het apparaat omhoog te klappen.
Zorg dat je, als er een microSD-kaart in de microSD-kaarthouder zit, deze nu verwijdert voordat je verdergaat met de volgende stap.

Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

Chris Cotter -

Please open this comments section and don't do this stupid mistake...
I used my newly bought beautiful mat and after everything was put back together, at the moment I took the SD card from the mat to put it back "BUT WAIT, a SD card on a magnet???" How to loose stupidly a SD card. You just loose some data (no saves or things like that) but still... stupid move.

So don't do it.

FonZ wayne -

Stap 7

Gebruik een JIS 000 schroevendraaier om de 1.6 mm lange schroef in de ruimte onder de standaard te verwijderen.
Sluit de standaard.

Stap 8

Open de klep van de gamekaart-cartridge.
De klep van de gamekaart-cartridge is aan de andere helft van de plastic behuizing bevestigd, zodat je het achterpaneel niet volledig kunt optillen als deze is gesloten.
Til het achterpaneel vanaf de onderkant van het apparaat omhoog en verwijder het.

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

Christopher Hernandez - 02/03/21

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

David -

When I lifted up the back cover, it kind of stuck near the headphone port (even with cartridge slot open). But it wasn't a screw or anything and I kind of carefully pulled and wiggled and the cover came off ok

Doe -

+1, there is definitely an extra clip there on my day 1 switch

repofmady -

I wasn't so careful here and found out during reassembly that I accidentally broke off the clip with the screw hole on the top of the back cover (the clip fell off the device when I turned it over), so I can't put the top screw back in, but oh well at least the back cover is still affixed to the device otherwise

Justin Johnson -

Are the little foam pads on the bottom back of the panel needed? They were removed from a panel I have.

Type1Guy -

If you're having trouble getting the back cover to fit during reassembly, check to make sure you don't have an SD card inserted in the slot. It will get in the way.

If you're like me, you might have inserted the SD card to verify your SD reader was working again after doing step 9 reassembly. If so, remove it before proceeding.

Alex -

Stap 9

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier om de 3.1 mm lange schroef, die de microSD-kaartlezer aan het toestel bevestigt, te verwijderen.

Stap 10

Gebruik je vingers of een pincet om de microSD-kaartlezer in een rechte beweging uit het toestel omhoog te tillen, deze los te koppelen en tot slot te verwijderen.
Zorg dat je, tijdens het weer in elkaar zetten van je toestel, de drukaansluiting onder het schuimkussen stevig met het moederbord hebt verbonden. Het kan handig zijn om het schuimen kussen te verwijderen alvorens de kaartlezer te herinstalleren.

Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

holmzee - 08/12/19

Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

Jonathan Stachewicz - 06/01/21

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Bill Little - 28/12/19

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

Mike Snow - 23/03/20

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Katherine Harrison - 12/05/20

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

William Scott - 04/07/20

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

Matthias_ Links - 21/10/20

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

Wes Stephenson - 26/12/20

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

Nate Topical - 01/01/21

Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

Wende David - 29/01/21

Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - 28/03/21

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

cravenkeo khamone - 13/05/21

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Elia Veschi -

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Robert Morvai - 25/08/21

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

J.R. Wood -

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

Kris Morey -

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Yakarot Sennin - 13/01/22

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

Rob M -

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

Jason Lane -

Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

R de Bruijne -

It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

Jonathon Sinclair -

I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

Albert Baker -

Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

Craig Thwaites -

It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

Serge Huber -

What are the foam black squares called and where can I get a replacement for one?

Marcus -

It’s called Foam tape

Alberto -

What is the error code 404 for

Alberto -

Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.

Dominic Jones -

so how would you theroedictly put the old slot back on.

and how does if even work

Shadow Dragon -

Horrible guide, incomplete. Needs to show how to reattach the new reader but doesn't show anything. This makes it incredibly easy to bend pins that become incredibly difficult to fix. Ended up bending pins on the connector beyond repair as I didn't know what to look for or how to reattach it. Wouldn't recommend

Blake Thorne -

Tried to do this, everything went smoothly I thought, but when I turn on system w SD card in the new slot, immediately freezes up the system completely until I hard shut down. Did I do something wrong?

Nate Akers -

"Draw the rest of the !@#$ing owl"

Droideka30 -

I have an issue that when I insert the SD card with the case off (to test the connection is correct), the switch reads it no problem. When I put the case back on, it no longer reads it. Anyone else experienced this?

Adam Seager -

This bullshit replacement part broke after two weeks of use, and now the connector on the board is damaged. My Switch is probably &&^&@@.

Thanks, iFixit!

Thomas Buster -

It was easy to remove, but harder with the black sponge to install. I initially did not take it off (on Install) and just place it in the hole. Luckily I tried the micro sd card and the switch did not detect the card. I then removed the black sponge and was very easily able to connect it back in the correct location and then continue assembly after verifying it was working fine. Some of the folks on this thread seem to be treating it like it is not super delicate electronics.

TA Warner -

The screw fell out. where can i find a new one?

Jesse G -

Stap 11

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier om de zes 3 mm lange schroeven, die het warmteschild aan het toestel bevestigen, te verwijderen.

Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

Draque Thompson -

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

nin10doh - 12/12/21

My switch had loctite (or similar) on the bottom right screw (farthest right), ended up striping it and having to use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get it out. I've heard that heat (solder gun) can be used to loosen loctite, hindsight. Only screw I found with loctite.

Rachael Webster -

Stap 12

Gebruik je vingers of een pincet om het stuk schuim aan de bovenkant van het toestel, bij de ventilatie-uitlaat, los te trekken.
Als het schuim niet makkelijk los te peuteren is, forceer het dan niet. In dat geval kan het namelijk scheuren. Probeer het in plaats daarvan vanaf verschillende kanten los te peuteren om het schuim los te krijgen.

My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

firetech - 05/02/21

It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

Craig Lloyd - 05/02/21

My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

Christoph -

Also did not see this in my launch switch.

matthew.raehl -

Me three, no foam.

carolaclavo -

Stap 13

Steek een spudger onder het warmteschild, dat zich langs de zijkant van het toestel bevindt.
Wrik het warmteschild omhoog en verwijder het uit het toestel.
Het kan zijn dat je wat weerstand voelt. Dit is normaal, aangezien het warmteschild lichtjes aan het koellichaam is bevestigd door middel van thermische pasta.
De ruimte tussen het warmteschild en het koperen koellichaam wordt overbrugd door een dikke, roze koelpasta die ervoor zorgt dat de Switch niet oververhit raakt.
Je kunt de koelpasta hergebruiken mits je voorzichtig te werk gaat. Zorg dat de pasta schoon blijft en zorg dat het na het weer terugplaatsen goed contact maakt met zowel het koellichaam als het warmteschild.
Als je de koelpasta moet vervangen, kun je deze handleiding gebruiken om de oude pasta te verwijderen en deze te vervangen door een geschikte pasta, zoals de K5 Pro-koelpasta.

How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

Youji Hong - 27/08/19

Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

MacTek - 15/12/19

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

Diego Soto - 30/08/19

I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

Adam Stillman - 06/09/19

No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

MacTek - 15/12/19

Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

Shawn Christensen - 20/12/19

Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

Amanda Nally - 12/03/21

Hi Amanda,

Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

Arthur Shi - 12/03/21

I agree with Amanda, hopefully I don't lose any parts before I can get the paste. This seems like it should almost be included in this kit from what I've read about this repair. Mine certainly needs to be replaced. I feel like at the very least, this should be at the top of the guide and part order page in bold, red, all cap lettering.

Side note this is the only "issue" I've had of the 4 purchases I've made with ifixit. I recommend you guys every chance I get. I really enjoy doing these repairs with my son.

Zach Bryson -

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

Philip W -

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

lievjorg -

Is another thermal compound as MX4 or 6 okay as well?

Marceau -

does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incomplete

Lucas Tigy -

This step is also completely glossed over in the YouTube walkthrough, which doesn’t even hint at the existence of the pink paste.

Phokal -

Since I couldn't find decently priced K5 I used a 0.5mm thick thermal pad and that seems to have done the trick quite well.

Dupont Nicolas -

The Amazon link goes to a kit with 6 tubes of K5 Pro. Surely I don’t need 6 tubes… is this kit sufficient? https://a.co/d/5aU8kB7

JAVH -

When replacing the thermal paste, is it possible just to clean the old thermal off the back plate and top of the copper heatsink and just re-apply those areas only, without removing that copper heatsink?

Linn Mckay -

I forgot to buy the thermal paste, and I very gently removed the metal plate... So in the end, I put it back with the old paste, and started (YEAH, it worked!!!) and followed the temperatures with a thermal gun, with TOTK playing on the screen to check if that could be a problem. This device is really impressive on this particular point, as I started to consider my gun had issues.

If you can, buy this paste, it is still cheaper than a new Switch.

FonZ wayne -

Stap 14

Gebruik de punt van je spudger om de batterijaansluiting in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het moederbord omhoog te duwen.

be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

Nathan McKenna -

This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

Dawn Martin -

it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

just some mango -

This step just ruined my device… wish there had been a warning of caution here.

Phone guy -

You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.

Brian Edgin -

I came at this from the right side (opposite) to where the images show. It was easy as I could use the point of the spudger as a lever to slowly remove the pins.

Efren Munoz, Jr. -

Stap 15

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële PH 000-schroevendraaier van iFixit om de drie 3 mm lange schroeven, die het koellichaam aan het moederbord bevestigen, te verwijderen.

Stap 16

Trek de twee schuimen stickers die over zowel het koellichaam als de ventilator heen zijn geplaatst van de ventilator af.

Trek de twee schuimen stickers die over zowel het koellichaam als de ventilator heen zijn geplaatst van de ventilator af.
Het schuim hoeft enkel een stukje teruggetrokken worden zodat je betere toegang hebt tot de ventilator. Deze hoeft dus niet volledig te worden verwijderd.
Het schuim is vrij fragiel en scheurt dus gemakkelijk. Gebruik de volgende techniek om het schuim weg te trekken:
Steek de punt van een spudger onder het deel van het schuim dat niet aan iets anders vastzit.
Druk met je vinger op de bovenkant van het schuimen stuk om het op z'n plek te houden.
Rol de punt van je spudger onder de rest van het schuimen stuk door om het los te maken.

spudger technique is perfect.

Jaxon Lee -

For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

nin10doh -

Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

Trae Block - 09/03/22

I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...

I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.

Garret Jaworski -

Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.

Ndragonawa -

Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.

Scott Norman -

I wanted to know as well, what does it do? Can I replace it with thermal pads?

Lord Aranorde -

Can I replace the foam with a 0.5mm thermal pad? Will it be a better solution?

Lord Aranorde -

The adhesive remover really helped here being a day one switch

Jeremy Ortner -

Day One Switch, used the spudger technique and 1 teardrop of adhesive remover, no foam ripped here! Technique is mint.

Cassitar -

how do you re-glue the foam when putting this back together?

Elias Cooper -

Be careful, the thread for the black 2.5 mm screw near exhaust is a seperate plastic part, and falls out easily!

ykne -

Stap 17

Gebruik een spudger of je vingers om het koellichaam omhoog en van het moederbord weg te tillen en te verwijderen.
Het kan zijn dat je wat weerstand voelt. Dit is normaal, aangezien het koellichaam lichtjes aan de CPU is bevestigd door middel van thermische pasta.
Verwijder de oude thermische pasta van het koellichaam en de CPU met behulp van isopropyl alcohol (>90%) en een microvezel doekje. Breng nieuwe thermische pasta aan op de CPU voordat je je toestel weer in elkaar zet.

What's on the heatsink?

Unknown1224 - 25/08/19

Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

Dan S. - 03/06/20

where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

Regal Pikachu - 04/06/20

They may sell it in the ifixit store.

Joshua Graham - 03/06/21

(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

Travis - 18/07/21

UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

Good luck!

Travis -

you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

just clean it afterwards

Richard Aguirre -

K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

Cerus98 -

i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

Richard Aguirre -

The steps doesnt specify but do you have to remove the heat shield from the cpu as well?

Jeremy Ortner -

I'll be doing this with Thermal Grizzly kryonaut this weekend, wish me luck

Corradon -

good luck with the repairs!

pkjnyoung -

Stap 18

Gebruik een openingstool of je nagel om de kleine, gescharnierde sluitklem op het ZIF-contact van de digitizerkabel open te klappen.

This step broke my switch i can't use my card reader anymore! i tried numerous time the reverse it seems my headphone jack works but my touchscreen and gamecard reader is broken. Even worse one of the screws to attach this plate was mangled so i cant even replace it anymore because the screw wont come out anymore. I reallly hate that i followed this guide others suggested to just keep the gamecard touchscreen ribbon attached and just fold it like a book. I wished i did that. I not gonna bother to even buy an gamecard replacement anymore. Its time to buy an switch oled and be done with this!

Kar Wai Chan -

The advice to "fold it like a book" will not work, as the cable will need to come out of the switch in order to replace the screen. It can not be kept in the slot.

Loris Hofer -

To anyone reading this step: This is not an isolated incident. The loss of functionality of the game reader board, which includes the use of reading cartridges, the touchscreen, and the headphone jack, is an possibility that can happen if you disconnect the board. Unless you are replacing the board itself, do not do this step. As of 1/15/2023, there is no know reason why this happens or no known solution other than buying a new game reader board.

Henry Terrance -

Update: If your Switch has lost the ability to read games and or the headphone jack in addition to touchscreen functionality, please consider reading this thread and its solution: Nintendo Switch Cartridge Reader Not Working After Fan Replacement

Henry Terrance -

it is really hard to see what you need to flip up. look at it from different angles. it's the thinnest little strip of black plastic.

Patrick Laffan -

If you're scared of breaking this piece, you can skip step 18 and 19, and just flip the reader over to the left (after step 20-22). Worked for me, be careful though it might bounce back.

Cato_nm -

Please help I replace the game card read and head phone. Now my switch wont even turn on.

Chase Blackstone -

Stap 19

Gebruik een pincet om de aansluiting van de digitizer-kabel horizontaal uit het contact op het bord van de gamekaartlezer te schuiven.

The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

Nick Wagner - 04/01/21

This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled

Ian Wilson -

the reverse of this is tricky. i'd suggest a better tool kit with this that includes real tweezers so i don't have to use my wife's

Patrick Laffan -

Did you get it to work finally?!

Chris Cotter -

Hi Chris! From the thread, it looks like it's not this connector that's the problem, but the press connector in the step below. If your card reader won't read cards, check to make sure this connector is fully aligned and seated.

Arthur Shi -

This connection was a problem for me. I tried the connection many times before it worked. What finally worked was lining up the gold rectangle on the back of the smaller part to overlap/cover the port very carefully. This required me to compress the ribbon a bit. Not much force required to finish the connection.

Tyler Rhodes -

I found it much easier to reinsert the ribbon while the reader board was fully disconnected. This way I was able to simply hold the reader board with my fingers and slide it over the end of the ribbon while the ribbon was just sticking up in the air. The ribbon is quite stiff and slipped in VERY easily in such a way that I felt confident that it was fully seated. Then while holding it in one hand, I flipped the locking flap down with a spudger in the other. You might also be able to seat the board and the ribbon will likely stay inserted under its own tension, then flip the locking flap down.

Brian Edgin -

Stap 20

Gebruik de punt van je spudger om de aansluitingen van de hoofdtelefoonjack en de gamekaartlezer in een rechte beweging van het moederbord omhoog te duwen en los te koppelen.

Note that if the card reader mentions it won't read cards, this cable has not been reconnected correctly. Watch the connectors are not bent when reattaching

Shaniqua Bowdre -

You need to push the connector upwards. Look at the image and you will see a very slight bend. This bent allows the connector to align with its dock. Very very careful when pressing down IT HAS TO BE ALIGNED.

Juan Visani -

This step had me most stressed during re-assembly. I saw in a video elsewhere where the person reattached the press connector BEFORE screwing it back in which gave them more room to work with. They also pointed out that there's an outline on the top that should line up with where it reconnects. This helped me re-connect with more confidence.

Level 100 Psyduck -

I also reconnected this connector before screwing the reader down. You will not have to contend with the pressure from bending the stiff wide cable leading from the connector.

claudio ocano -

커넥터 위의 사각형을 소켓 위치에 맞추세요.

faddk79 -

Stap 21

Gebruik een JIS 000-schroevendraaier om de drie 3.1 mm lange schroeven, die de hoofdtelefoonjack en het bord van de gamekaartlezer aan het toestel bevestigen, los te schroeven.

Stap 22

Gebruik een pincet of je vingers om de beugel op de hoofdtelefoonjack te verwijderen.

Stap 23

Gebruik een pincet of je vingers om het bord van de hoofdtelefoonjack en de gamekaartlezer te verwijderen.

Stap 24

Gebruik een openingstool, een spudger of je nagel om de kleine, gescharnierde sluitklem op het ZIF-contact van de lintkabel van het LCD-scherm open te klappen.

How to replace locking flap incase it flys off

Jonathan D'Costa -

Stap 25

Gebruik een pincet om de lintkabel in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het moederbord te trekken.

I’ve torn a few ribbon cables in my time. Use your tweezers to nudge the tabs on either side of the ribbon cable and “walk” the ribbon cable out of the ZIF connector - slowly!! This should help prevent any tears in the ribbon cable when using tweezers.

nin10doh -

When reconnecting this cable, make sure it is completely inserted (it is a bit difficult, but insert it as much as you can). If not, after finishing the repair the screen will be powered (it stays dimly light) but without any image.

Mario A. -

Stap 26

Gebruik een openingstool, een spudger of je nagel om de kleine, gescharnierde sluitklem op het ZIF-contact van de kleinere lintkabel van het LCD-scherm open te klappen.

Stap 27

Gebruik een pincet om de lintkabel in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het moederbord te trekken.

Stap 28

Verwarm een iOpener en leg deze gedurende ongeveer twee minuten op de onderkant van het scherm om de lijm eronder te verzwakken.
Je kunt hiervoor ook een föhn, warmtepistool of een kookplaat gebruiken, maar wees bij het gebruik hiervan wel voorzichtig voor oververhitting—zowel de batterij als het scherm zijn erg vatbaar voor warmteschade.

I used a hair dryer because I don’t own a microwave and didn’t like the idea of boiling the iOpener - which apparently doesn’t work that well anyway. For reference, the hair dryer I used was a CONAIR 1875 Styler. I also used an infrared thermometer, which you’ll absolutely need if you’re not going to use the iOpener. You need the infrared thermometer because you must know when to stop heating the digitizer. There are delicate components nestled in the top of the Switch’s faceplate - right where you’ll be putting the heat. To begin:

1. Prepare your work area by clearing the surrounding surfaces of anything plastic, metal, or electronic - surrounding areas are sure to reach temps of up to 110 °F (43 °C).

2. Get something non-conductive like a small cardboard box to rest the disassembled Switch on top of. This will help to target the heat on the specified area, depending on which step you’re on.

nin10doh - 19/12/21

3. Grab a piece of cardboard and cut it to the shape of the Switch screen, or around the same size. You will need this cardboard to protect the LCD and delicate internals.

4. Set your infrared thermometer to the side or somewhere close to the spot where you’ll be heating the digitizer.

5. Grab your hairdryer and set that to the side as well.

6. Position the Switch on the cardboard box so that you are ready to begin heating the first side of the digitizer as specified in Step 28. I found that it was easier to have the heated side facing me, so that I can hold the hairdryer more comfortably.

7. Begin heating the bottom of the digitizer, starting on the lowest setting of your hairdryer. You’ll want to hold the hairdryer just close enough that you have about three or so inches between the heat and the Switch itself. Heating the digitizer will take some time, so do not expect the temperature to rise rapidly. A rapid rise in temperature can damage sensitive internal components, even with the cardboard piece in place.

nin10doh -

8. After 1 min 30 sec, check the digitizer temperature and make sure that the surface temperature (the opaque black border, not the actual screen) registers at 130 °F (54 °C) or higher. Continue heating on Low until a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher is reached.

9. When a temperature of 130 °F (54 °C) or higher has been reached, raise the hairdryer another two to three inches from the digitizer. Switch your hairdryer heat setting to High ( or Med, for three-temp hairdryers) and continue heating until a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached. Check the temperature every 2 secs to ensure even, consistent heating. Once a temperature of 161 °F (71 °C) has been reached, do not heat the digitizer any further. Doing so could damage the LCD, internal antennas, or faceplate.

10. Repeat steps 6 thru 9 alongside the guide (Steps 28 thru 38) to complete the digitizer adhesive softening process.

Good luck! If this causes anyone any problems, reply here and I’ll try to respond as quickly as possible.

nin10doh -

Stap 29

Druk een zuignap in de linker onderhoek van het scherm.
Trek de zuignap met een stevige, constante kracht omhoog om zo een kleine opening te creëren.
Dit kan, afhankelijk van de leeftijd van je toestel, lastig zijn. Als je moeite hebt met het creëren van een opening gebruik je meer warmte en probeer je het nog eens.
Steek de punt van een openingsplectrum in de opening en zorg dat je deze niet verder dan 5 mm in het toestel steekt.

Used a heat gun at 3/4 power for TWO 2-min bursts. The remainder of the sides each took a single 2-min burst.

Jaxon Lee -

Stap 30

Schuif je openingsplectrum langs de onderkant van het scherm om aldaar alle lijm door te snijden.
Laat je plectrum in de opening zitten om te voorkomen dat de lijm zich opnieuw aan het frame gaat hechten.

Stap 31

Steek een tweede openingsplectrum in de opening, links van de eerste plectrum.
Schuif je openingsplectrum terug naar de linkerzijde van het toestel.
Laat je openingsplectrum in de opening zitten.

Stap 32

Verwarm de linkerzijde van het scherm gedurende ongeveer twee minuten om de lijm daar te verzwakken.

Stap 33

Blijf je openingsplectrum langs de linker onderhoek schuiven om de lijm die je tegenkomt door te snijden.

Stap 34

Schuif je openingsplectrum langs de linkerzijde van het scherm omhoog om de lijm die je tegenkomt door te snijden.

make sure to follow exactly which side it says to do... i just sliced straight through the digitizer cable doing this ^^" whoops

qu in n -

Stap 35

Verwarm de bovenkant van het scherm gedurende twee minuten om de lijm te verzwakken.

Stap 36

Schuif je openingsplectrum langs de linker bovenhoek om de lijm aldaar door te snijden.

Stap 37

Schuif je openingsplectrum langs de bovenkant van het scherm om de lijm daar door te snijden.

Stap 38

Verwarm de rechterzijde van het scherm gedurende twee minuten om de lijm te verzwakken.
Plaats het platte einde van je spudger in de opening aan de linkerkant van het scherm.
Til de linkerkant van het scherm langzaam maar voorzichtig op, zodat je console opent als ware het een boek.

My digitizer separated from the lcd screen during this step. Wasn’t a problem. Just something to be aware of

Jaxon Lee -

Stap 39

Til de rechterkant van het scherm recht omhoog van het toestel af en begeleid, terwijl je dit doet, de lintkabels door het frame heen.
Zorg dat je voorzichtig te werk gaat zodat je geen van de lintkabels per ongeluk beschadigt doordat deze achter het frame blijven hangen.

What kind of glue is required to re-assembly the screen?

Deedend 77 -

only thing missing. I am scraping the old adhesive off and trying to re-use

Jaxon Lee -

UPDATE: So, I was able to peel off the re-apply the old adhesive. It seems pretty secure, but we’ll see. Otherwise, this step needs an additional detail about what type of adhesive would be ideal to finish this.

Jaxon Lee -

Hi Jaxon!

Thanks for the suggestion! I added an extra bullet for the adhesive.

Arthur Shi -

thank you for the help

Cifiboy -

How many mm wide Tesa tape should I purchase?

Keishin Tamaki -

Does anyone know where to find a replacement for the clear adhesive? I successfully completed the repair but the digitizer keeps separating from the screen.

Digital Queen -

Stap 40

Verwarm de bovenkant van de schermmodule gedurende ongeveer twee minuten om de lijm die het LCD-scherm aan de digitizer bevestigt te verzwakken.

Stap 41

Draai de schermmodule om.
Steek een openingsplectrum in de linker bovenhoek van het toestel tussen het LCD-scherm en de digitizer.
Het maakt niet uit hoe diep je je openingsplectrum in je toestel steekt, maar ongeveer 5 mm zou genoeg moeten zijn om alle lijm door te snijden.
Je kunt de digitizer lichtjes buigen om een grotere opening te creëren, maar wees hierbij voorzichtig en zorg ervoor dat je 'm niet te ver buigt, aangezien dit voor schade en problemen kan zorgen als je je digitizer weer wilt gebruiken.
Schuif je openingsplecturm langs de bovenkant van de schermmodule om de lijm door te snijden.

Stap 42

Schuif je openingsplectrum langs de bovenkant van het scherm om de lijm door te snijden.

Stap 43

Verwarm de linkerzijde van de schermmodule gedurende ongeveer twee minuten om de lijm eronder te verzwakken.

Stap 44

Steek je openingsplectrum in de opening en schuif deze langs de linkerzijde van de schermmodule om de lijm door te snijden.

Stap 45

Schuif je plectrum verder langs de linker onderhoek van de schermmodule om de lijm door te snijden.

Stap 46

Verwarm de onderkant van de schermmodule gedurende ongeveer twee minuten om de lijm te verzwakken.

Stap 47

Schuif je openingsplectrum langs de onderkant om de lijm aldaar door te snijden.

Stap 48

Verwarm de rechterzijde van het scherm gedurende ongeveer twee minuten om de lijm te verzwakken.

Stap 49

Steek het platte einde deel van je spudger tussen het LCD-scherm en de digitizer, langs de linkerkant van de schermmodule.
Til de linkerzijde van het LCD-scherm langzaam maar zeker op, zodat het scherm opent alsof het een boek is.

Stap 50

Blijf het LCD-scherm van de digitizer wegtrekken om de twee onderdelen van elkaar te scheiden.
De lintkabel van het LCD-scherm is lichtjes aan de digitizer bevestigd. Als het makkelijk loskomt, kun je meer warmte toedienen in dat gebied en het nog eens proberen.

Stap 51

Enkel de digitizer blijft over.
Als je nieuwe digitizer niet met vooraf geïnstalleerde kleefstrips is geleverd, kun je deze handleiding gebruiken om op maat gesneden kleefstrips langs de buitenkant van het scherm aan te brengen voordat je je toestel volledig sluit.

Conclusie

Vergelijk je nieuwe onderdeel met het originele onderdeel om te zien of je onderdelen over moet zetten of om te zien of je beschermlagen moet verwijderen voordat je je nieuwe onderdeel kunt installeren.

Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.

Als je nieuwe digitizer niet goed werkt bij het aanzetten van je toestel schakel je je toestel weer uit, koppel je de batterijaansluiting weer los en sluit je deze opnieuw aan. Probeer het dan nog eens.

Breng je e-afval naar een door R2 of e-Stewards gecertificeerde recycler.

Ging je reparatie niet zoals gepland? Bezoek dan onze pagina over probleemoplossing of stel je vraag op ons Nintendo Switch antwoordenforum voor hulp bij het oplossen van je probleem.

Auteur

Craig Lloyd

Lid sinds: 10/02/16

39656 Reputatie

15 commentaren

Are Digitizers from original models (HAC-001) and revision models (HAC-001-(01)) compatible?

I don’t mean switch lite but the revision with the longer lasting battery.

GBG HNM - 16/02/21

Yes, the digitizer is compatible with both models!

Craig Lloyd - 16/02/21

No .

Daan Van Horssen -

The ribbon cable for the digitizer is too short and cannot plug in to the connecter on the game card reader. Any ideas what the issue could be? im using a custom housing for it

Daniel -

there should be a slit on the front housing where the ribbon cable goes straight through to the back. pay attention at where it comes out of on step 39

Ricardo Ortega - 19/04/22

Did you end up getting an answer to this? The same thing happened to me this evening, and I'm stumped.

David Jarosz -

Ive tried replacing the digitizer twice, both were successful but when i took the first one off to replace it i snagged the digitizer cord and figured nothing of it as new digitizers have new cables. But upon implementing a new digitizer and reassembling there was ghost touching (input as if someone was using the touch screen when no one was touching it) the digitizers i previously got were from a sketchy amazon company and both suffered from ghost touching. Was it caused by me snagging the cord? I didnt tear the original cord and didnt yank it hard enough to cause any damage but i have trouble blaming it on the sketchy digitizers as they were both scratched and such but both did it. Seemed too coincidental to be two bad digitizers. Anyone have any thoughts?

Ethan Smith -

excellent repair guide took me about 45 minutes to disassemble and reassemble for a digitizer and LCD replacement. the trickiest part is getting the secondary ribbon cable into its connector on the reassembly everything else is smooth sailing and simple.

Timothy Andrade -

Very good guide, getting the LCD panel to align on the digitizer was a bit tricky without any kind of alignment tool, but I got there in the end.

Joshua -

This guide is amazing! Helped me rescue my LCD for another Switch. Thank you iFixit!

Patrick TBP -

Does the digitizer replacement work for an OLED model?

Katelyn Newman -

Quick question, on my model the digitizer still works fine, seems to be, that it just bulged out a bit in the middle, if I put it back in, you can even feel the rest of the adhesive holding it for some time. But in the end, it's (just the digitizer, not the LCD) is bending outwards again. I would assume it's just the missing some adhesive. Is there a quick way without going through the whole disassembly to put some new adhesive under the digitizer?

Andreas -

You should be able to start from step 46. You will need to be careful to not break any ribbon cables though.

NathyB -

Hello, I have already replaced the digitizers and touch on my switch. Unfortunately the touch still doesn't work. What else could it be? motherboard?

Michael Casett -

Fantastic guide! In my repair, at step , the LCD and the old digitizer panel separated right away. I was worried I over heated the panel, but in the end everything works correctly.

ShelfCrit -