Inleiding
Vooraf vereiste handleiding die je toont hoe je een iPhone 7 opent voor toegang tot de onderdelen aan de binnenkant.
Gereedschap
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Schakel je iPhone uit voordat je begint deze uit elkaar te halen.
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Verwijder de twee 3.4 mm pentalobe schroeven aan de onderkant van de iPhone.
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Gebruik een föhn of een warmtepistool, of prepareer een iOpener en leg deze op de onderkant van de iPhone gedurende ongeveer een minuut om zo de lijm die eronder zit te verzachten.
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Trek de zuignap omhoog met een constante kracht om zo een kleine opening tussen de schermmodule en de achterste behuizing te creëren.
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Steek het platte einde van een spudger in de zojuist gecreëerde opening.
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Schuif de spudger naar links langs de linker onderhoek van de iPhone.
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Draai de spudger lichtjes omhoog om de opening tussen het scherm en de achterste behuizing iets te vergroten.
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Schuif de spudger langs de linkerkant van de iPhone, beginnend bij de linker onderhoek en in de richting van de volumeknoppen en de luid-/stilschakelaar.
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Steek het platte eind van een spudger in de rechter onderhoek van het toestel.
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Kantel je spudger lichtjes om de opening tussen het scherm en de achterste behuizing iets te vergroten.
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Schuif het platte einde van de spudger langs de rechterkant van de telefoon omhoog om zo de lijm, die het scherm vasthoudt, door te snijden.
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Trek aan het kleine lipje op de zuignap om deze los te krijgen en van het voorste paneel te verwijderen.
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Schuif een openingsplectrum langs de bovenkant van de iPhone, tussen de achterste behuizing en het voorste paneel, om zo de overige lijm die het scherm vasthoudt, door te snijden.
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Trek de schermmodule lichtjes weg van de bovenkant van de telefoon om deze los te maken uit de klemmen die de module aan de achterkant bevestigen.
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Open de iPhone door het scherm open te slaan vanaf de linkerkant, alsof je de achterkant van een boek openslaat.
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Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.
Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?
Cooper Chase -
Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.
rcheing -
Can’t get the display front
Bernadette Pfeifer -
From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.
ballina5ny -
I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.
Mark Lieberman -
in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)
Jan-Tijn Oppermann -
3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.
Ahmad Vaziri -
the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks
Martin Frutos, Nuñez -
The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.
Bram Driesen -
Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.
Jon Moylan -
If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.
Ryan Huebert -
Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction
Cynthia Lamb -
I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?
Richard -
Do the screws come out in total?
YVES THEUGELS -
They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.
Anthony Falabella -
Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??
YVES THEUGELS -
I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.
Anthony Scaminaci -
At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss -
I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.
I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.
Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.
Klaus Preiss -
I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.
I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.
The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?
H K -
get a new batt to replace whilst you 're at it
Graham Sargerson -