iPhone SE 2020 Vervanging van het scherm

Geschreven door: Adam O'Camb

Reacties: 187

iPhone SE 2020 Vervanging van het scherm

Moeilijkheid

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Tijd vereist

30 minuten - 2 uren

Inleiding

Leer met deze handleiding hoe je het scherm van je iPhone 2020 vervangt. Dit onderdeel wordt geleverd met de vooraf geïnstalleerde naar voren gerichte camera, oorstukspeaker en EMI-schild, wat reparaties vergemakkelijkt.

Het enige wat je zelf moet doen is het verwijderen van het oude scherm en het overzetten van je oude thuisknop naar het nieuwe scherm, om ervoor te zorgen dat de Touch ID-functie behouden blijft.

Let op: True Tone-functies zijn uitgeschakeld naar een schermvervanging, zelfs als je een origineel Apple-scherm gebruikt.

Gereedschap

Onderdelen

Stap 1

Ontlaad je iPhone, voordat je begint, tot onder de 25%. Een geladen lithium-ion batterij kan in brand vliegen en/of exploderen als deze per ongeluk wordt doorboord.
Schakel je iPhone uit voordat je begint deze uit elkaar te halen.
Verwijder de twee 3.5 mm lange pentalobe-schroeven aan de onderkant van de iPhone.
Het openen van het scherm van de iPhone zal de waterdichte sluiting van de telefoon aantasten. Zorg dat je vervangende sluitingen klaar hebt liggen voordat je verdergaat of zorg ervoor dat je telefoon niet wordt blootgesteld aan water als je ervoor kiest de sluitingen niet te vervangen.

just how long are those screws- i turn and turn and turn and the lift off is soooo slight, seemingly insignificant…

An. Jahnke - 27/12/20

I would recommend, from the very beginning, dumping all tools out of the kit (if you got it) and using that white paper tool box as a tray to organize the screws and braces in. It’s nice to work over because it catches screws well and makes it easy to see them if you drop any.

Johnny Emrica -

That’s a great idea thank you

Mohamed Dekkiche -

Screw to the left of the charging port will not come out. Screw on the right came out no problem. Any ideas?

Bill Maher -

Maybe the screw is stripped…

Gabriel-Science -

I already replaced my iPhone 8 battery with one from iFixit and honestly I wasn't impressed. It worked well for a few months, but then I started noticing the peak performance capability dropping significantly thereafter. I followed the initial charging instructions to a tee and only let it drop below 20% once a month. Normal everyday use for me... no intense apps like games, etc. I considered having Apple do it this time around, but for these older models they don't keep the batteries in-stock and you have to give them your phone for up to a week. So in the end, I opted to try another battery from iFixit instead. Hopefully this one will last longer.

tripmusic -

Does it lasted longer ?

Gabriel-Science -

How with the gigantic kit do I not have a 3 1/2 pentalobe driver the very first screwdriver I reach for and that I need is not in any of these kits. What’s up with that?

Michael Stephens -

Same problem. The kit comes with a screw driver, but not for this pentalobe screw. This is a problem.

Yuji Ishitsuka -

I had to search what screwdriver bit I had to use from the ifixit toolkit; it's the P2 bit. (Maybe it's more obvious if you bought the battery kit, because it only has one type of pentalobe screwdriver.)

Nathaniel Zielstra -

Stap 2

Als het glas van je scherm gebroken is, kun je het verder breken van het glas en lichamelijke schade tijdens de reparatie voorkomen door het glas te beplakken met tape.
Leg overlappende stukken doorzichtige tape over het scherm van de iPhone totdat het volledig is beplakt.
Dit zal ervoor zorgen dat de glasscherven bij elkaar blijven en dat er een structuur wordt geboden bij het eruit duwen en tillen van het scherm.
Draag tijdens de reparatie een veiligheidsbril om je ogen te beschermen tegen mogelijk vrijkomende glasscherven.
Als het gebroken scherm het onmogelijk maakt om een zuignap vast te laten zuigen op het scherm, kun je proberen een sterk stuk tape (zoals ducttape) dubbel te vouwen in een handvat, dit op het scherm te plakken en zo het scherm omhoog te tillen.

In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

lionno1 - 17/09/18

Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

Chloé Bossuette - 22/09/18

I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

Emilio Gonzalez - 04/11/18

I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

forhereyesonly - 07/04/19

This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.

Berggorilla - 26/12/19

thank you!!!!!

Adrian Phan - 28/09/20

Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

obo12759 - 13/11/20

Duck Tape worked great for me. Thanks for the great instruction!

Michael -

Tried several types of tape but finally used this screw driver solution. At first I wasn't pushing hard enough for fear of damaging things but with just a bit of extra force I was able to open it right up. Everything is fine with only a slight scratch on the frame.

Wesley Shank -

Stap 3

De volgende twee stappen introduceren de Anti-Klem, een handige tool die we aanraden aan iedereen die regelmatig reparaties uitvoert. Als je de Anti-Klem niet gebruikt, sla dan de volgende drie stappen over voor een alternatieve methode.
Voor uitgebreider instructies voor het gebruik van de Anti-Klem, lees je deze handleiding door.
Trek de blauwe hendel naar achteren zodat de anti-klem vrij kan bewegen. (Op deze manier deactiveer je de openingsstand van de anti-klem.)
Schuif de armen over de linker- of rechterzijde van je iPhone.
Plaats de zuignappen dichtbij de onderkant van de telefoon—één op de voorkant en één aan de achterkant.
Druk beide zuignappen aan, om zuigkracht uit te oefenen op de gewenste plek.
Als het oppervlak waarop de zuignappen zich moeten vastzuigen te glad is, kun je wat tape gebruiken voor meer grip.

Stap 4

Trek het blauwe handvat naar voren om de armen van de anti-klem te vergrendelen.
Draai het handvat 360 graden met de klok mee of tot de zuignappen uit beginnen te rekken.
Zorg dat de zuignappen op één lijn met elkaar zitten voordat je begint met het openen van het toestel. Als je ziet dat de zuignappen niet meer op één lijn zitten, maak je ze los en breng je ze weer op de juiste positie aan.

Stap 5

Verwarm een iOpener en plaats deze tussen de armen van de anti-klem op je telefoon.
Je kunt ook een föhn, heteluchtpistool, of een kookplaat gebruiken, maar wees bij het gebruik hiervan extra voorzichtig. Te veel warmte kan tot warmteschade leiden. Vooral het scherm en de batterij zijn hier erg vatbaar voor.
Vouw de iOpener zodat deze op de onderkant van de iPhone komt te liggen.
Geef de lijm een minuutje de tijd om los te komen zodat de anti-klem een opening kan creëren.
Steek een plectrum in de opening onder het scherm.
Als de anti-klem er niet in slaagt een opening te creëren die groot genoeg is voor je plectrum gebruik je meer warmte en draai je het blauwe handvat een kwartslag met de klok mee.
Draai het handvat nooit verder dan een kwartslag per keer en wacht een minuut voordat je de anti-klem weer besluit aan te draaien. Laat de anti-klem het werk voor je doen.
Sla de volgende drie stappen over.

it looks like a....

Gergely Soki -

Stap 6

De volgende drie stappen laten je zien hoe je het scherm opent met behulp van een enkele zuignap.
Het verwarmen van de onderkant van de iPhone helpt de lijm, die het scherm op z'n plek houdt, te verzachten, wat het makkelijker maakt om de telefoon te openen.
Gebruik een föhn of een warmtepistool, of prepareer een iOpener en leg deze op de onderkant van de iPhone gedurende ongeveer 90 seconden om zo de lijm die eronder zit te verzachten.

No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

John Toth - 13/10/20

Hello,

What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

Jiří Sítko - 28/01/21

I was about to ask the same Question...

Enno Winch -

Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

Nate B -

Hey, that's smart !

Gabriel-Science -

If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

Pete P -

I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

Adam Yavner -

I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

terrelldoc -

I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

Matt Brown -

I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

Paul Aron -

It won't work if you don't throw it in the lava.

Gabriel-Science -

I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

John Barker -

Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

tripmusic -

Agree! Just did it for 2 times to make sure I didn't overheat the phone.

André Lopes -

The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

John -

I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

John Noble -

No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

John Noble -

Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

John Noble -

. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

John Noble -

Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

Matt C -

This part was actually much easier than I thought. I used a hair dryer on max for 2 minutes on each side of the phone, less than half an inch away from the phone, just on the bottom half. It was hot! Screen came right out!

Nuno Lopes -

I used a tube sock full of about 1 cup of white rice. Tied a knot in the top of the sock. Put the sock of rice in the microwave on 60% power for 1 minute. Kept doing this until the temp felt right. Put the sock of rice down, put bottom edge on sock, then covered w/ other half of the sock/rice. Put a piece of paper towel between phone and sock/rice to absorb any moisture. When lifting up on front panel, I rested the phone on the sock/rice. Worked nicely once I got the temp of the rice high enough.
(threw the rice away later :-) )

Burning Sensation -

“Threw the rice away later” has to be the best advice here. I wrapped my phone in a small heating pad and turned it up to 6 of 8. Worked great in 5 min or less! No need for water bottles, microwaves, heat guns, volcanoes, …. I kept the heating pad later ; )

dantegd -

I popped my iPhone under a desk lamp with a 60w filament light bulb in it, switched it on, (See this photo) then read the iFixIt instructions and comments. By the time I’d done that, the glue had softened enough to start work. I managed to do the whole process, slowly and methodically, without incident. The iPhone even worked after I’d put it all back together. So we’ll done iFixIt. Another satisfied customer!

Tony Houlihan -

Stap 7

Druk een zuignap op de onderste helft van het voorste paneel, net boven de thuisknop.
Zorg dat de zuignap niet overlapt met de thuisknop, aangezien dit ervoor zal zorgen dat de zuignap zich niet vast kan zuigen aan het scherm.

Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

Aaron Soderholm - 04/12/20

As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

Johnny Emrica -

Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

J Rawlinson -

Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

Bradley Steiner -

iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

Matti Haveri -

If you don't have the anti-clamp device, to prevent the screen from tearing open when suctioning it, I suggest some layers of tape around it and the back of the phone (the tape has to be stretchy enough to just minimise the momentum when separating the screen), or some big rubberbands

Raziocinjo -

This was the time consuming part. I’d recommend having a thin bladed knife or similar to get things going. I used the small blade on my Swiss Army knife, but be careful. When it goes, it can be unexpectedly sudden. I also used a strong rubber band to stop any excessive opening of the screen.

Tony Houlihan -

Stap 8

Trek de zuignap omhoog met een stevige, constante kracht om zo een kleine opening tussen het voorste paneel en het frame van de telefoon te creëren.
Steek een openingsplectrum in de opening.
De waterdichte lijm die het scherm op z'n plek houdt is erg sterk; het creëren van de opening kan dus heel wat kracht vereisen. Als je moeite hebt met het openen van de telefoon, dien dan meer warmte toe en wiebel het scherm op en neer om de lijm te verzachten totdat de opening groot genoeg is voor je tool.

The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

charguy - 31/05/18

Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

Brian Gill - 29/09/19

I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

Michael Sherman - 31/05/21

Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

Chris Wood -

Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

Johnny Emrica -

Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

Howard -

4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

Cat -

Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

Jim Meyers -

After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

Jared Wilk -

Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

hunter.geofizz -

I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

Alessio Toniolo -

Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

Bradley Steiner -

After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

dantegd -

The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

thewrytstf - 12/02/24

sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

Andi Tony -

I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

Sharaf Kazi -

Stap 9

Schuif je openingsplectrum langs de linkerkant van de telefoon omhoog, beginnend bij de onderkant en in de richting van de volumeknoppen en de stilteknop, en snijd onderweg alle lijm door die het scherm op z'n plek houdt.
Stop in de buurt van de linker bovenhoek van het scherm.
Probeer de bovenkant van het scherm niet los te wrikken van de achterste behuizing, aangezien deze wordt vastgehouden door middel van plastic klemmen die kunnen breken.

My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

griffin.weber -

Stap 10

Er loopt een aantal makkelijk te beschadigen kabels langs de rechterkant van de iPhone. Steek je plectrum daar niet in de opening om te voorkomen dat je je toestel beschadigt.

I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

Gib Jeffries -

Stap 11

Steek je openingsplectrum opnieuw in de rechter onderhoek van de iPhone en schuif deze nu langs de rechterzijkant omhoog. Snijd ook hier alle lijm door die je onderweg tegenkomt.
Steek je plectrum ook hier niet dieper dan 3 mm in de opening om te voorkomen dat je de schermkabels beschadigt.

No pick in the kit you sent me.

Ted Cooper -

Stap 12

Trek met beleid aan de zuignap om zo de onderkant van het scherm op te tillen.
Til het scherm niet meer dan 15º omhoog of je riskeert het afklemmen of afscheuren van de lintkabels die het scherm verbinden.
Trek aan het kleine lipje op de zuignap om deze van het voorste paneel te kunnen verwijderen.

Stap 13

Steek een openingsplectrum onder het scherm en schuif deze langs de linker onderhoek en linkerzijde omhoog om de laatste lijm door te snijden.

I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

Karen Flowers -

I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

Adam Yavner -

This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

wendyhoward -

Stap 14

Schuif de schermmodule een beetje omlaag (weg van de bovenkant van de telefoon) om deze los te krijgen uit de klemmen die het scherm aan de achterste behuizing bevestigen.

I had trouble sliding down the display and found I hadn't separated the stop enough.

Jeffrey Anderson -

When you are pulling the display downward, be very careful! I pulled a little too hard and the display cables tore from the downward (toward home button) motion. Now I have to replace the display! 😭

So Munch Love -

Stap 15

Open de iPhone door het scherm van de linkerkant naar rechts te kantelen, alsof je de achterste kaft van een boek opent.
Probeer het scherm nog niet volledig los te koppelen, aangezien deze nog steeds aan het logic board van de iPhone verbonden is met een aantal kwetsbare lintkabels.
Om het scherm open te houden en aan de telefoon te kunnen werken, kun je het scherm tegen een object laten leunen.

Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

Manfred Wachtel - 12/05/20

Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

Sebastian Plickert - 23/04/21

“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

Which is the same as folding to the right.

“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

Maybe it gets lost in translation?

Nick Shtangey -

Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

Jim Glenys -

When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

Jim Glenys -

Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

Mangled Jargon -

If you're skipping the screen and taptic engine removal like I did, I suggest you tape the back of the phone to the table, and also tape the screen to the vertical object it lays on, so it stays still. That way you will avoid having to constantly readjust it because of the sliding of the housing of the phone when you're working on it. Be careful where you're putting the tape on the screen though, if you're doing it on the internal components.

Raziocinjo -

Stap 16

Verwijder de vier Phillips-schroeven die het plaatje van de onderste schermkabel aan het logic board bevestigen, met de volgende lengtes:
Twee 1.3 mm schroeven
Twee 2.8 mm schroeven
Zorg dat je, tijdens deze reparatie, bijhoudt welke schroef waarvandaan komt, zodat je deze op de juiste plek weer terug kan schroeven. Een schroef op de verkeerde plek kan leiden tot permanente schade.
Verwijder het plaatje.

Not Y000 this time haha

Easy Repair - 19/03/18

can same length screws mixed up?

Brook布魯克 - 21/11/19

It is not ideal, but possible for these screws.

Arthur Shi - 21/11/19

using the repair kit i purchased with my screen replacement, i am currently having issues removing these screws with the PH000. please help

Mark Ordaz - 25/04/20

I was too, thankfully I had another set that contained the PH00 bit, that worked great for me.

William Mitchell - 04/05/20

Ok. My screw is stuck. How do I remove it? Philips head is stripped.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Solved it myself. Firm pressure did the trick.

Kristina Graham - 12/09/20

Takes a little pressure with the Philips head

John Toth - 13/10/20

Upon this step, I noticed I had no bracket or screws. I had my screen replaced previously and I’m disappointed to find out the repairperson made no effort to replace these parts. I’ll start trusting myself more to do my own repairs.

O D -

took me awhile to figure out I needed to use PHOO bit for the 2 -1.3 screws

Karen Flowers -

It is important to keep careful track of the screws' position. Have a tidy workplace -- a few times when I tried to re-attach the very tiny screws with the tweezer, they slipped and flew away and I almost lost them.

Matti Haveri -

can you strip the screws / how can you tell if its strip or not

antonio -

Stap 17

Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de batterijaansluitinguit het contact op het logic board omhoog te duwen.
Buig de kabel van de batterijaansluiting voorzichtig weg van het logic board om te voorkomen dat deze per ongeluk contact maakt met het contact en de telefoon inschakelt tijdens de reparatie.

Make sure you pry the battery connector off from the right hand side as shown in the picture. Theres a delicate component on the logicboard near the battery connector called a Mosfet which is linked to the battery charging software. If you knock it off accidently you’ll loose battery charging and the phone will boot loop and youll need to have it re-soldered back on.

Gareth - 23/08/20

I can confirm this as I learned my lesson by unknowingly prying the mosfet off. The phone will not charge now and is useless. I really wish they would add a note about this on Step 12 as a warning.

Jeff -

So this is it. You don’t have to go any further removing the screen. You can replace the battery right from this point.

John M - 02/12/20

I wish I saw this comment 2 hours ago

Kenneth Moore - 12/05/21

If I have to repeat this, I'd also consider removing replacing the battery at this point. The loose display must be then carefully fixed so the connectors don't break. And then it is not possible to re-attach the waterproof seal.

The waterproof seal was included in the kit, but there were no instructions for it so I now skipped that. I later found YouTube video which seems to describe it (starting at 7:40):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RcgGRhaX...

Matti Haveri -

This is where I broke my phone, a phone that was working quite well, paid for in full. Just because I had a cracked screen. Be super careful when connecting the cables. I was in a hurry and not paying attention, used too much force when re-connecting and broke those teeny little pins that could not be repaired. A tech tried for an hour to no avail. cautionary tale. Good luck

Karen Flowers -

The display ribbon is a certain length and allows for some give, but behind it is hidden the Home button/TouchID ribbon, which sits against what amounts to a razor blade. This ribbon is much more taut than the display one, and therefore you have far less freedom of movement than you think you do. This is absolutely an intentional trap to discourage replacing your own battery. Quite frankly, it’s despicable.

Anyway, so beware of that, because although I was very careful and did not even swing the screen very far (not more than 90°), the Home button ribbon tore and now needs to be serviced. Home button is disabled now.

Apple should be ashamed of themselves for this. Please do look at the legislation effort that people are doing to try to get this kind of sabotage illegal, as well as all sorts of other gimmicks they pull. For a company that makes phenomenal products, they’re controlling like an abusive spouse.

Dan Knight

daniel -

That happened to me and I could not figure out how it got broken. It's the home button and fingerprint reader.

But I'm not bothering to get it fixed and I'm not replacing the entire screen. I went into system prefs/accessibility and activated the on-screen home button. Oh, well.

Mangled Jargon -

I cannot get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. Any tips/tricks? New and old battery connections appear similar. It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery.

Robert Ast -

Some reports here seem to indicate that the battery must be the very last connector to re-connect because otherwise there might be malfunction in some display components?

It wasn't difficult to disconnect to old battery. But the most difficult part for me was to get the new battery reconnected to the connection port. I tried many times to carefully position and press it down with my fingertip or the flat end of the spudger but it did not hold its position. Maybe I pressed too weak because I was afraid breaking the connector and the mosfet above (?) it. But finally to my surprise it connected (at that point I temporarily booted the iPhone with the loose display to verify that the battery was connected). Whew, it succeeded!

Matti Haveri -

The connectors have very little "click" to them when they do seat properly, and are covered with soft foam. Very challenging to attach them by feel, and having the screen propped up, blocks light from exactly where you need it.

Steve Trotman -

Make sure the new battery connector cable has similar length and width to the one of the original battery. I got a third party battery and the cable was longer and not folded in a "U" way near the connector, like the one in the genuine battery was, only folded at a 90 degree angle. That "U" actually perfectly fits in the small space between battery and connector port, so the cable doesn't stick up thus making connecting it or closing the screen impossible. So fold the cable, connect it, and while holding it to prevent it from disconnecting, stick the battery so the "U" curve of the cable sits down just between battery and connector port.

Raziocinjo -

Stap 18

Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de onderste schermaansluiting uit het contact omhoog te duwen.
Om drukaansluitingen zoals deze weer aan te sluiten, positioneer je deze totdat op z'n plek lijkt te zitten en duw je één kant van de aansluiting omlaag tot deze vastklikt, om vervolgens hetzelfde te doen aan de andere kant. Druk niet op het midden, want als de aansluiting verkeerd zit, zul je de pinnen buigen en zo schade veroorzaken.

I broke the lower display connector. Is it possible to replace that part separately or do I need to buy a full screen replacement?

Ross Mckellar -

You need to buy a new screen

conrad veldhouse -

이렇게 친절하게 정성스럽게 분해도 올리신 분은 처음이네요 진정 프로/ 기타 나머지 잡것들은 대충 올려 돈이나 벌어보자는 업자num들/ 배터리 교체하는 유툽 영상보다...업자가 올린 ...배터리 교체는 따라했으나 그후 배터리 교체와는 전혀 상관 없는 액정 뒤판을 jo빤다고 설명도 없이 뜯어 그것까지 따라하다 액정이 나가버려 지금 무주공산에서 홀로 검색하다 이걸 보게됨

평생놀아난다 - 15/01/24

The tip about how to re-attach press connectors without damaging them should really be at the last press connector step since we're following the steps in reverse order to reassemble.

mike eng -

Stap 19

Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de tweede van de onderste schermkabels los te koppelen.

Stap 20

Verwijder de drie 1.3 mm lange Phillips schroeven die het plaatje op de aansluiting van de sensormodule in het voorste paneel bevestigen.
Verwijder het plaatje.

If you are replacing the adhesive liner, the remaining release liner strips will interfere with the two outer screws. I had to cut a working section out of the liner at each location and move it aside with the spudger.

Thomas Tritt - 30/03/19

This part is throwing me for a loop. Having difficulty finding the read head for these screws. Is it the same size as the two small 1.3mm screws in step 12?

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

These are the same size screws mentioned in Step 17.

Douglas Walker -

ended up getting it with the PH000, I must of just been rushing it.

Jared Hensley - 01/12/19

My bracket looks different and none of the screw heads I have fits.

Ray Rushing - 28/09/20

Mine too? Any help?

George Waller - 29/05/21

These screws did not stick to the magnetic screwdriver. Extremely difficult to get them back in place - but with some patience i succeeded :)

Niklas Brammer - 19/01/21

Stap 21

Gebruik de punt van een spudger om de aansluiting van de sensormodule in het voorste paneel los te koppelen.

Do you have a link for the flex cord shown in the pictures so I can purchase it? Having a hard time locating that exact assembly

Regal Carveiro -

Regal see iPhone 8 Vervanging van de voorste camera en sensorkabel iPhone 8 Vervanging van de voorste camera en sensorkabel

xint -

It’s of a piece with the front camera.

xint -

ここの、マザーボード側のピンが数本なくなっていた場合

交換するには、どの部品名で探せば良いですか？

ren12o7.2011 -

Stap 22

Verwijder de schermmodule.
Tijdens het weer in elkaar zetten van de telefoon, kun je hier pauzeren als je de lijm om de zijkanten van het scherm wil vervangen.

Hi ifixit, if you find my method dangerous, please remove it.

After Step 17, I skipped Step 18 to Step 28.

At Step 29, I lifted up the four adhesive black pull-tabs to expose the white adhesive side. Next, I use hot air gun and blow on the back cover of the iphone for about a minute (maybe a hairdryer will work too) .

Warning: Don't overheat the iPhone, or you may accidentally ignite the battery.

I think the temperature was around 60 DegC.

Extreme Caution: Do Not overheat. I use my hand to gauge the hotness. Careful not to burn yourself or the board.

I was able to pull out all the white adhesive tapes easily as the adhesive soften.

DO NOT TRY this method if you are a novice or inexperience! I am not responsible if you hurt yourself or damage your iphone!

John - 20/05/20

Hey John! I’m glad the repair worked out for you!

From our research, applying heat does soften the adhesive strips, but it also causes them to lose structural integrity and break more easily. That’s why we normally suggest using heat after the strips are already broken. Removing the Taptic Engine definitely takes a few extra steps, but we feel that it gives fixers the best chance of pulling out the adhesive strips intact.

Arthur Shi - 20/05/20

I agree with John, skip 18 through 27. These are to make it easier to remove the battery adhesive. I replaced the batteries on two IPhone 8s. The first one I did all that stuff and the adhesive still broken and I had to carefully pry the battery out anyway. When I reassembled the phone the Home button no longer worked. Looking it up, this is apparently fairly common due to all the fragile wires involved in these steps. The second I skipped these steps and when I reassembled it everything worked fine. Not one of the eight (both phones) adhesive strips came out properly. I fully drained the batteries before doing the repairs. By the way, I use the virtual home button on the one phone, it’s a little annoying, but the phone is still usable if you’re not ready to shell out for a new phone.

Gary Berman - 06/04/21

I also skipped removing the Taptic Engine. I could only half-way pull the lower battery tapes and completely the upper tapes after carefully prying them loose with the tweezer. I then used a hair-dryer for a minute to warm the battery and the other side of the phone (I used my other hand to make sure I did not apply too much heat. Make sure you do not blow the tiny loose screws away with the hair dryer!) and then slowly lifted the upper battery somewhat with the Opening pics tool, then re-heated the lower remaining tapes and quite easily lifted the battery out.

I had bought two-sided tape to reconnect the battery but it had the tapes pre-installed (I wonder if it is necessary to tape the battery at all?).

Matti Haveri -

I also skipped these steps. I won’t say it was entirely successful - two of the four adhesive strips broke and could not be grabbed with tweezers. But I had gotten most of the adhesive out already and the battery was quite loose, so I used a warmer under the phone, then gently slid a flat plastic blade under one end of the battery and slowly worked it up the phone. (Dental floss would have been safer-don’t do what I did, kids!)

Matt D - 30/05/21

Likely can skip step 18-28 and all the risks. Battery tape is relatively removable by the following method

- use a tweezer to pull up a corner of each tape. Then use fingers to peel back all the black tab on top of battery

- use 2 hands. Index and thumb on both. Pull about 1/4” with one hand, hold the tension and pull 1/4” with the other hand. Alternate, go slow. Pull out all 4 tape completely. I think the pause after each 1/4” while holding the stretched tape firmly prevents the tape from over stretching to become too thin and break.

- Don’t apply heat, I would guess that makes tape softer and break easier.

Have tried other methods and failed in the past. Pulling too fast (tape will snap) or use a tweezer to twist/roll (sharp edges will cut tape) Anyway, just use index/thumb on both hands and alternately pull slowly

I did do 2 iPhone 8 battery change this way. One removed all tape without breaking. Another broken all 4 tape after about 1/3 pulled so likely some factory assembly differeces.

Howard -

I second this, this method works well in most cases. Removing the haptics helps to keep the angle low and pulling the tape as straight as possible

Hein Blöd -

Howards method for removing the adhesive works like a charm. The only addition I made was to slightly warm the back of the iphone on a rice pack (used for sore neck muscles—haha). Going back and forth between hands is really crucial. While on hand gives a gentle pull, the other holds the phone from moving. Slow back and forth. Thanks.

Lynn Thomas -

Struggling with the glued down display, then properly cleaning all the remains of the old seal, then positioning the new seal is 95% of this job. I purchased my phone refurbished and it clearly had already been serviced once, there were remnants of an old seal below the current seal due to improper cleaning and prep that made getting the phone open harder than it needed to be.

Steve Trotman -

For my 2nd iPhone 8 battery replacement, I chose not to remove the display completely, or the Taptic Engine and I was successful. You have to pay extra attention and it is a bit trickier to keep the display from moving around too much, but I think minimizing the amount of screws and connections to take out, the better. You can easily lose the screws and you have to mind which ones go where, as there are so many different lengths. YMMV.

tripmusic -

In retrospect, I also would have skipped ahead to step 33. I didn't, but my efforts at removing the adhesive tape were also unsuccessful so steps 23-33 were for naught. Ended up applying isopropyl alcohol, then warming the back, and finally just physically levered the battery out. Battery was slightly deformed and became slightly warm, so as soon as I got it out I just put it outside on a brick.

But the replacement worked.

Peter Benson -

Stap 23

Verwijder de vier Y000 schroeven die het plaatje bovenop de thuisknop/Touch ID-sensor bevestigen:
Eén 1.2 mm schroef
Eén 1.3 mm schroef
Verwijder het plaatje.
Zorg dat je deze schroeven, tijdens het weer in elkaar zetten van je telefoon, niet te strak aandraait, aangezien dat kan leiden tot het niet of slecht functioneren van je thuisknop.

Bei meinem iPhone waren das Y00 Schrauben, nicht Y000

Andreas Veeser - 08/06/20

If the screw on the home button is broken, you can bend the metal sides upwards and pull down out of the phone and push and refold into the new display. Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

Andy Knapp - 08/08/20

Andy Knapp - wherever you are - you saved me. NOTE: the iphone 8 has four tri-wing screws - that means you need a tri-wing screwdriver. I ordered an entire replacement set and mine had one in there, but it does not mention anything about tri-wing in these instructions… so. Hope that helps someone.

Paula Lofland - 10/09/20

On my iPhone, these were Y00 screws, not Y000

Jim Glenys -

Dutch version speaks of one 1,3 mm screw, but has 3 of those screws.

Fonne Van Gils -

There is a difference between Y00 and Y000. I realized this after unknowingly trying the Y000 and damaging the tip of the screwdriver, as the metal is apparently softer than the screw. I was able to use the corner of a flat metal file to make the cheap Y0000 work (which came with the replacement kit) by making 3 adjustments: 10 filing down the tip, 2) filing the shoulders to make the tips more pointed, and 3) cleaning out the 3 channels to remove burrs from the tip edges.

Robert Lanzafame - 20/08/22

Note on the bracket, it’s above the attached washers to the plate backing the screen. The image here is obscured by the yellow and red circles. Also, the bracket has a red herring hole that doesn’t serve an apparent purpose - don’t freak out and think you lost a screw

Wandra -

Stap 24

Gebruik een openingstool om deze onder de linkerkant van de kabelaansluiting van de thuisknop te duwen en deze zo uit het contact omhoog te duwen.
Als de gehele connector omhoog komt zonder los te laten, zet dan, met het platte einde van je spudger, druk op de bovenkant van de kabel, terwijl je de aansluiting via de linkerkant omhoog probeert te duwen. Zorg dat je de kabel of aansluiting niet beschadigt, aangezien je dan riskeert de sensor permanent te beschadigen.

To have a better view on this connection I have removed the metal plate covering the back of the glass. Its a thin piece of metal held by 9 screws. To unscrew the 8 screws you need the screwdriver head with 3 sides like the Mercedes Benz symbole. The last is with a phillips near the camera.

forhereyesonly - 05/01/20

I thought I was going to tear the cable doing it the way it’s suggested in the guide. After examining the cable on the replacement screen, I found it easier to hold the bottom connector pressed against the screen with one leg of needle nose tweezers whilst gently prying off the top connector with an opening tool.

Cool_Breeze - 04/03/20

See step 22 to get a clearer picture of what the connector looks like when it is separated from its socket. Your replacement screen will have a new socket (i.e., the bottom piece of the connector). My replacement screen had a new socket attached to the unit by a thin piece of plastic. For reassembly, when working the Home Button/Touch ID assembly back into the new screen, I had to work the connector cable under the socket in order to get the connector re-attached.

Kristina Graham - 13/09/20

Be extra careful with this step: it wasn’t clear to me from the description that the connector wrapped from underneath to connect, nor did my set come with picks. I used a blade from the wrong side, inadvertently (but way too easily) severing the connector and destroying the function of the home button and thus the entire phone.

Jennifer Indeliclae - 23/05/21

Be careful, I initially didn’t found the connector and nearly ripped the cable. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate. Found a YouTube video with very good close ups for this part (go cell phone repair detailed version)

Svenja Büsing -

I initially didn’t found the connector and cable and nearly broke it. The connector leads to a cable that goes under the metal plate, I needed YouTube video with good close ups to understand the setup.

Svenja Büsing -

Stap 25

Het verwarmen van het gebied om de thuisknop/Touch ID-sensor heen zal helpen om de lijm, die de kwetsbare kabels op hun plek houdt, te verzachten en het verwijderen ervan te vergemakkelijken.
Draai de schermmodule om. Gebruik een föhn of prepareer een iOpener en leg deze op de onderkant van het scherm gedurende ongeveer 90 seconden om zo de lijm eronder te verzachten.
Oververhit het scherm niet. Het zou zo warm moeten zijn dat het nét niet comfortabel genoeg is om aan te raken.

The stove top works well also. Remember, as the main instructions say, it should be slightly too hot to touch comfortably.

forhereyesonly - 05/01/20

Stap 26

Gebruik een openingsplectrum om de lijm die de kabel van de thuisknop/Touch ID-sensor aan de achterkant van het schermpaneel vasthoudt, los te maken.

My original assembly broke trying to follow this step carefully. :(

Ann - 04/12/20

This one’s kind of hard to reconnect. Just remember to be gentle, take your time, and use your hands so that you can really feel it out.

Johnny Emrica -

Keep in mind, there’s a tiny rubber ring gasket between the Touch ID button and the display. In my experience when removing the button, the gasket stuck partly to the the button and partly to the display. I gently removed the part that was sticking to the display and guided it back on the button. If you’re missing that gasket it won’t be waterproof.

Sam Tropper -

I used a heat gun set at 300*F to heat up the glass side for about 20 seconds and on connector side for about 10 seconds (touchscreen was a little too hot to the touch). Pulled connector with fingers and pried off with plastic tool.

anonymous 6745 -

Stap 27

Verwijder de thuisknop/Touch ID-sensormodule door deze door het gat in de voorkant van het scherm te begeleiden.
Om deze weer te installeren, begeleid je eerst de kabel door het gat in de voorkant van het scherm, zoals op de foto getoond wordt.
Het kan zijn dat je vervangende onderdeel wordt geleverd met extra Y000-schroeven die al zijn bevestigd naast de thuisknop. Verwijder de overbodige schroeven zodat je het plaatje van de thuisknop weer kan installeren.

Instructions were great. Putting the connections back is a bit of a hassle, but patience is your friend. Phone is up and running. Thanks iFixit.

pwpfef01 - 19/01/21

Couldn’t get the Home Button (original one I was transferring) to work. I know the instructions said something about not tightening down the 4 screws around the Home Button too much, but how much is too much. Also, a day later, the screen I bought starting having green vertical lines. Took everything back apart and started from scratch the next day and still had the same 2 problems. Just for the heck of it, I put the old cracked screen back on the phone and everything started working again. Figured I wasted about 6-8 hours total on this rather small project and I’m right back where I started again. Something definitely wrong with the screen I ordered and I’m very disappointed. I’ve bought products from ifixit before and they worked, but no such luck this time. Anyone know how I get my 70 bucks back?

Todd Skobjak - 31/01/21

Hi Todd!

I’m sorry to hear about your experience! Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!

Arthur Shi - 02/02/21

They charged you $70 bucks for a new replacement screen for an iphone8 and it didn't even work right that's crazy they are over charging people considering my wife only payed $23 for a new replacement screen kit that comes with the new screen and everything else you need to change it out plus a extra screen protector and I just finished replacing the screen and so far so good no green vertical lines running down my screen. I like ifixit because they show me how to fix what I need to fix but I don't think I will be buying anything from them anytime soon.

Lincoln -

I greatly support Ifixit… but.. for me the same story as Todd Skobjak. Put in the new screen. Touch button is not found. Retried with screws loosened and refitting the plug. Nothing. Put the old screen back and the touch button worked again. So.. something with the new provided screen from Ifixed must be the case. I'll also get in touch with customer support.

Ifixed: not only check the screen but also the cable to the touch button!

Ton Vaes -

What’s the trick here?

Getting an “unable to activate Touch ID” after replacing the home button and a new screen - somewhat similar to that above. Any troubleshooting steps/resolution? I loosened, tightened screws holding the assembly, no effect.

schaferjon -

The button is paired with the motherboard. if you change the screen, always attempt to retrieve the original button.. otherwise touchid will not be available

Bill McNamara -

The instructions for this home/touch button repair were spot on! The special tip in red for Step 19 was extremely useful because that was exactly what I encountered while attempting to remove the original home/touch button from the original front screen. Step 21 and accompanying photos were a life saver as well, but this process did require heating the screen with my wife’s hair dryer several times to be able to gently pry up the adhesive for the home/touch button ribbon without ripping it to pieces. And yes my phone worked great after completing this repair. Time spent meant money saved and a personal satisfaction and pride in a job well done. Thank you Team iFixit!

Jeffery Anderson -

the steps to move the front camera and speaker to the new screen are missing, right?

martijn.klabbers -

do you really neec to replace the home button?

ineedtoreplacemyphonescreen -

Do you foget to pick up and set the inner camera?

Or, is that too easy for you to instract in it...?

Actually I got that by myself,,,

M Moto -

Conclusie

Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde. Vergeet hierbij niet de lijm rondom het scherm opnieuw aan te brengen voordat je het scherm weer installeert.

Breng je e-afval naar een R2 of e-Stewards gecertificeerde recycler.

Ging je reparatie niet zoals gepland? Check dan onze iPhone SE 2020 antwoordencommunity voor hulp bij het oplossen van je problemen.

Auteur

Adam O'Camb

Lid sinds: 11/04/15

212588 Reputatie

24 commentaren

Is the SE 2020 still able to accept the replacement screen from iPhone 8? I thought it was mentioned lots here on the site a while back. If the 8 screen does not fit the new SE there must of been a change added recently.

gary olinger - 10/08/20

I've just completed the repair for a work phone on an SE 2020 with an iPhone 8 screen. I can confirm the screen fits and works fine!

One thing to note - this will break true tone and 3D touch functionality. I'm aware that it's possible to re-enable them with some fancy codework, but I really cannot be bothered for the benefit of retaining a couple of gimmicks.

I cannot account for the new iPhone SE (2022), though it looks like (surprise surprise) it uses much of the same parts.

Colm Donnelly -

The front facing camera system should be replaced as well since the front facing camera system with the new display will not work.

Vishal Mansuria - 22/12/20

I think you mean the camera from the old phone needs to be transplanted if the replacement doesn’t come with the camera and other sensors out of the box.

BRUCEL86 -

Confirmed for iPhone SE 3rd gen - you need to replace the full sensor assembly, even if the new screen comes with one already. Also the SE 2020 replacement screen works with 3rd gen.

Alex Connor -

I can’t find a guide on how to apply “iPhone 8/SE 2020 Display Assembly Adhesive” kit.

Anyname - 24/02/21

Vervanging van de kleefstrips van een iPhone-scherm

jorge - 15/03/21

My daughter dropped her phone into the drive belt system on the beverage cart at the golf course. It was later found almost completely destroyed . The screen has burnt marks and the casing was worn off by rubbing against the belt. I figured I’d give it a shot since it was cheaper then replacing her phone.

After a full day of removing melted plastic from the case, I was finally able to put the screen back together. To my surprise, everything worked flawlessly, and the only issue is the cosmetic worn out casing.

do yourself a favor and purchase the cameras

and everything else with the kit .

jorge - 18/05/21

The touch-id sensor bracket is definitely a Y-00 and NOT a Y-000 set of screws. Please take note so as not to strip out the screws trying to remove them with the wrong bit/driver.

Daniel Carriveau -

Why doesn’t the front facing camera work after replacement?

ish -

You have to replace the one from the original screen onto the new one to have it work

daNNy Ng -

Good guide - accurate, descriptive and well labelled. Exactly what I've come to expect of ifixit.

Colm Donnelly -

Very nice and detailed guide. Got it replaced and working perfectly.

- side note you have to replace the camera module from the original screen to have the front camera work

- this is along with the home button, shown in the guide

TURN IT ON AND TEST BEFORE YOU PUT THE SCREEN BACK ON!

daNNy Ng -

I replaced my screen successfully, but my front facing camera isn’t working. Any idea how to fix it?

savygirl96 -

How can this be called a guide when it stops half way through the process?! There's nothing on removing the front camera, not to mention the whole reassembly process! Also info on how tightly to torque up screws would have been helpful.

jamesludlam -

Absolutely flawless instructions. Thank you so much for creating this.

John Elstad -

I need help screen just look completely black

Isabella Ceballos -

Same did Dey help you

Nath akingbade -

Hi i did the same thing and my phone don’t on again what can I do pls i need help

Nath akingbade -

I just replaced my screen with the $65 screen replacement kit that comes with the front facing camera. The first time I did this the front camera didn't work. Good thing I tested before reassembly. I made sure that it was the replacement kit's issue by connecting the camera from the broken screen (it worked). Sent mail to iFixit about the defective part, and they sent me another screen which worked fine. Doing the screen replacement the second time around was much easier since I didn't use the adhesive gunk.

wingeng -

to be clear- did you skip the adhesive altogether?

puddinglady -

I replaced both the battery and the display. One problem remains - the screen "dances" up and down when I try to activate the Home button; I've re-opened the phone and adjusted the screws on the Home button twice, with no change in the symptoms. Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to get this to work correctly?

Jay S. -

Sadly the instruction for the assembly are missing. This would be fine, if there was nothing to look out for.

I had the problem that my bottom right screen wasn't flush and there was a small brightspot. It tourned out to be this problem: https://de.ifixit.com/Antworten/Ansehen/...

The original iPhone Screen doesn't have the same problem, because the IC is glued in place. The iFixit version moves freely. Assembly instructions could have addressed this.

Arne Pretorius -

Guide très précis, bravo, un vrai plaisir, merci

ronparchita -