Nintendo Switch Vervanging van de batterij

Geschreven door: Craig Lloyd

Reacties: 209

Nintendo Switch Vervanging van de batterij

Moeilijkheid

Gemiddeld

Stappen

Tijd vereist

45 minuten - 2 uren

Inleiding

Gebruik deze handleiding om een oude of defecte batterij in de Nintendo Switch-spelcomputer te vervangen.

Als je de beschermplaat vervangt, zul je de koelpasta tussen de plaat en het koellichaam ook moeten vervangen. Aangezien normale koelpasta niet is ontworpen om grote openingen te overbruggen, raden we je aan om K5 Pro viskeuze koelpasta te gebruiken.

Deze handleiding en het onderdeel dat we verkopen, zijn compatibel met het originele Nintendo Switch-model dat in 2017 is uitgebracht, evenals het nieuwere model dat in 2019 is uitgebracht (respectievelijke modelnummers HAC-001 en HAC-001(-01).

Sommige schroeven op de Switch zijn erg strak aangedraaid en daarom makkelijk dol te draaien. Hoewel de schroeven JIS-profielen bevatten, zal een Phillips #00 of een Phillips #000 soms toch beter werken. Werk langzaam en probeer een ander bitje als het voelt alsof je het risico loopt een schroef te strippen.

Ontlaad de batterij van je toestel, voor je eigen veiligheid, tot onder de 25% voordat je begint met het demonteren van je Switch. Dit verkleint het risico op een thermisch ongeluk bij het tijdens de reparatie per ongeluk doorboren van de batterij. Neem, als je batterij gezwollen is, tevens de juiste voorzorgsmaatregelen.

Gereedschap

Onderdelen

Stap 1

Zorg dat console en de controllers volledig zijn uitgeschakeld voordat je met deze reparatie begint.
Druk de kleine ronde knop aan de achterkant van de Joy Con-controller in en houd deze ingedrukt.
Schuif je controller, terwijl je de knop nog steeds ingedrukt houdt, omhoog.

Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.

Ina Barz -

backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

do not watch the video! i broke the metal shielding on my switch because they didn't mention a screw!!!

Macro Man -

Stap 2

Blijf de Joy-Con omhoog schuiven totdat deze volledig van de console verwijderd is.
Herhaal ditzelfde proces bij de andere Joy-Con.

Stap 3

Gebruik een Y00-schroevendraaier of -bitje om de vier 6.3 mm lange schroeven die het achterste paneel bevestigen los te schroeven.
Zorg dat je, tijdens deze reparatie, bijhoudt welke schroeven waar vandaan komen, zodat je zeker weet dat ze op de juiste plek terug geplaatst worden.

Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

cday - 05/06/21

I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

Joe -

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

nin10doh -

I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

Banjomanperson -

I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

Pifase -

My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.

AndrewDaPro -

This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.

AndrewDaPro -

I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.

J LWsMommy -

what to do if your screw is stripped??

suru -

I haven't tried neither solutions that I am gonna propose here but

1. Poor some Isopropyl Alcohol, one small drop will do, get a piece of cotton (not any clothing) and dip it in the Isopropyl Alcohol, apply and then try to get a grip with tweezers and turn it out

OR (I do not reccomend it since it can cause huge damage if done wrong)

2. Grab a small drill and drill through the screw. Keep in mind; the screw is very small.

If you do one of these and it goes wrong, I am not responsible for that.

DongComArts -

I had to file down the point of the y00 bit. As it came, I was not able to get the back screws out. It would just slip in the screw.

Dave -

Y1.5 is correct, perfect fit.

Orpheus -

this is so difficult the screwdriver doesnt help AT ALL

Issa - 29/01/25

One of my screws was unremovable, so I gently turned the cover so the full place was available and that worked.

FonZ wayne -

Stap 4

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier of -bitje om de volgende schroeven te verwijderen waarmee het achterpaneel is bevestigd:
Eén 2.5 mm lange schroef aan de bovenkant van het toestel.
Twee 2.5 mm lange schroeven aan de onderkant van het toestel.
Om te voorkomen dat deze schroeven, die strak vastgedraaid zijn, strippen of doordraaien, zul je een stevig neerwaarste kracht moeten zetten, langzaam te werk moeten gaan en gebruik moeten maken van een andere JIS 000- of PH 000-schroevendraaier als de schroeven niet los willen komen.

Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

Thanks

Nemysis - 27/03/21

The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

Craig Lloyd - 29/03/21

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

david brown - 28/04/21

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Brooklyn Gardner - 07/05/21

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

cday - 05/06/21

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

Benjamin Fritz -

If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.

claudio ocano -

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

Jaxon Lee -

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

Richard Aguirre -

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

Shawn Spivey -

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Florian Kraupa -

I just came here to also confirm and say thanks to Florian for the tip. This saved me a lot of time and frustration.

Jon Nielsen -

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

Jason Lane -

These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

Susannah Carter -

Der Tausch von Akku (separate Anleitung) und Lüfter ging einfach vonstatten. Die Anleitung ist echt gut und leicht verständlich. Man sollte aber gewohnt sein, mit extrem kleinen Anschlüssen, Schrauben und Platinen zu arbeiten, da alles da drin recht klein ausgelegt ist und keine Toleranz für grobschlächtiges Arbeiten erlaubt! Meine Switch ist nun wieder wie neu :) - Danke iFixit!

The swapping of battery (separate instruction) and fan was fairly manageable. The instructions are easy to understand. One should be used to handle with extremely finnicky connectors, screws and circuits as the components are really small and do not allow any tolerance for rough handling at all! My Switch is good as new again :) - Thank you iFixit!

gerhardkoschany -

My original switch bought on launch day does not have any of these screws. I'm guessing they fell out since the plastic tabs they attach to are broken. FYI, in case anyone else does not have these screws...

Michael Crook -

same here. one screw was completely absent on mine, and the other two couldn't be put back. I probably broke one of the tabs while reassembling the device. it still works fine, but I don't really like how loose the casing feels now.

Evan Newman -

Stap 5

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier of -bitje om de twee 3.8 mm lange middelste schroeven aan de zijkanten van het toestel (een aan beide zijden) te verwijderen.

I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

mrhoyt - 04/03/21

Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

Craig Lloyd - 05/03/21

Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

Ryan Quinn - 22/05/21

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

mrhoyt - 05/03/21

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

Federico Zivolo - 21/04/21

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

Nick -

My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

Cynthia Hyland -

I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

Raymond Garrison -

after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.

Steve T -

One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!

carolaclavo -

i managed to get out one screw by putting a bit of paper over it which gave the screwdriver something to grip. The other side just won't budge and gets worse the more i try.

Steve T -

000 is too small, PH00 is right. Incorrect bit size will strip screws.

Orpheus -

Stap 6

Gebruik je vinger om de standaard aan de achterkant van het apparaat omhoog te klappen.
Zorg dat je, als er een microSD-kaart in de microSD-kaarthouder zit, deze nu verwijdert voordat je verdergaat met de volgende stap.

Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

Chris Cotter -

Please open this comments section and don't do this stupid mistake...
I used my newly bought beautiful mat and after everything was put back together, at the moment I took the SD card from the mat to put it back "BUT WAIT, a SD card on a magnet???" How to loose stupidly a SD card. You just loose some data (no saves or things like that) but still... stupid move.

So don't do it.

FonZ wayne -

Stap 7

Gebruik een JIS 000 schroevendraaier om de 1.6 mm lange schroef in de ruimte onder de standaard te verwijderen.
Sluit de standaard.

Stap 8

Open de klep van de gamekaart-cartridge.
De klep van de gamekaart-cartridge is aan de andere helft van de plastic behuizing bevestigd, zodat je het achterpaneel niet volledig kunt optillen als deze is gesloten.
Til het achterpaneel vanaf de onderkant van het apparaat omhoog en verwijder het.

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

Christopher Hernandez - 02/03/21

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

Step 10) Nintendo Switch Right Joy Con Sensor Rail Replacement

David -

When I lifted up the back cover, it kind of stuck near the headphone port (even with cartridge slot open). But it wasn't a screw or anything and I kind of carefully pulled and wiggled and the cover came off ok

Doe -

+1, there is definitely an extra clip there on my day 1 switch

repofmady -

I wasn't so careful here and found out during reassembly that I accidentally broke off the clip with the screw hole on the top of the back cover (the clip fell off the device when I turned it over), so I can't put the top screw back in, but oh well at least the back cover is still affixed to the device otherwise

Justin Johnson -

Are the little foam pads on the bottom back of the panel needed? They were removed from a panel I have.

Type1Guy -

If you're having trouble getting the back cover to fit during reassembly, check to make sure you don't have an SD card inserted in the slot. It will get in the way.

If you're like me, you might have inserted the SD card to verify your SD reader was working again after doing step 9 reassembly. If so, remove it before proceeding.

Alex -

Stap 9

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier om de 3.1 mm lange schroef, die de microSD-kaartlezer aan het toestel bevestigt, te verwijderen.

Stap 10

Gebruik je vingers of een pincet om de microSD-kaartlezer in een rechte beweging uit het toestel omhoog te tillen, deze los te koppelen en tot slot te verwijderen.
Zorg dat je, tijdens het weer in elkaar zetten van je toestel, de drukaansluiting onder het schuimkussen stevig met het moederbord hebt verbonden. Het kan handig zijn om het schuimen kussen te verwijderen alvorens de kaartlezer te herinstalleren.

Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

holmzee - 08/12/19

Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

Jonathan Stachewicz - 06/01/21

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Bill Little - 28/12/19

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

Mike Snow - 23/03/20

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Katherine Harrison - 12/05/20

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

William Scott - 04/07/20

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

Matthias_ Links - 21/10/20

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

Wes Stephenson - 26/12/20

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

Nate Topical - 01/01/21

Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

Wende David - 29/01/21

Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - 28/03/21

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

cravenkeo khamone - 13/05/21

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Elia Veschi -

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Robert Morvai - 25/08/21

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

J.R. Wood -

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

Kris Morey -

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Yakarot Sennin - 13/01/22

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

Rob M -

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

Jason Lane -

Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

R de Bruijne -

It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

Jonathon Sinclair -

I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

Albert Baker -

Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

Craig Thwaites -

It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

Serge Huber -

What are the foam black squares called and where can I get a replacement for one?

Marcus -

It’s called Foam tape

Alberto -

What is the error code 404 for

Alberto -

Managed to push the connector back in with foam on, used back of plastic tool to push secure and once completed was able to use the SD port again. Brilliant little guide.

Dominic Jones -

so how would you theroedictly put the old slot back on.

and how does if even work

Shadow Dragon -

Horrible guide, incomplete. Needs to show how to reattach the new reader but doesn't show anything. This makes it incredibly easy to bend pins that become incredibly difficult to fix. Ended up bending pins on the connector beyond repair as I didn't know what to look for or how to reattach it. Wouldn't recommend

Blake Thorne -

Tried to do this, everything went smoothly I thought, but when I turn on system w SD card in the new slot, immediately freezes up the system completely until I hard shut down. Did I do something wrong?

Nate Akers -

"Draw the rest of the !@#$ing owl"

Droideka30 -

I have an issue that when I insert the SD card with the case off (to test the connection is correct), the switch reads it no problem. When I put the case back on, it no longer reads it. Anyone else experienced this?

Adam Seager -

This bullshit replacement part broke after two weeks of use, and now the connector on the board is damaged. My Switch is probably &&^&@@.

Thanks, iFixit!

Thomas Buster -

It was easy to remove, but harder with the black sponge to install. I initially did not take it off (on Install) and just place it in the hole. Luckily I tried the micro sd card and the switch did not detect the card. I then removed the black sponge and was very easily able to connect it back in the correct location and then continue assembly after verifying it was working fine. Some of the folks on this thread seem to be treating it like it is not super delicate electronics.

TA Warner -

The screw fell out. where can i find a new one?

Jesse G -

Stap 11

Gebruik een JIS 000- of een officiële iFixit PH 000-schroevendraaier om de zes 3 mm lange schroeven, die het warmteschild aan het toestel bevestigen, te verwijderen.

Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

Draque Thompson -

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

nin10doh - 12/12/21

My switch had loctite (or similar) on the bottom right screw (farthest right), ended up striping it and having to use a Dremel to cut a slot in the screw to get it out. I've heard that heat (solder gun) can be used to loosen loctite, hindsight. Only screw I found with loctite.

Rachael Webster -

Stap 12

Gebruik je vingers of een pincet om het stuk schuim aan de bovenkant van het toestel, bij de ventilatie-uitlaat, los te trekken.
Als het schuim niet makkelijk los te peuteren is, forceer het dan niet. In dat geval kan het namelijk scheuren. Probeer het in plaats daarvan vanaf verschillende kanten los te peuteren om het schuim los te krijgen.

My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

firetech - 05/02/21

It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

Craig Lloyd - 05/02/21

My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

Christoph -

Also did not see this in my launch switch.

matthew.raehl -

Me three, no foam.

carolaclavo -

Stap 13

Steek een spudger onder het warmteschild, dat zich langs de zijkant van het toestel bevindt.
Wrik het warmteschild omhoog en verwijder het uit het toestel.
Het kan zijn dat je wat weerstand voelt. Dit is normaal, aangezien het warmteschild lichtjes aan het koellichaam is bevestigd door middel van thermische pasta.
De ruimte tussen het warmteschild en het koperen koellichaam wordt overbrugd door een dikke, roze koelpasta die ervoor zorgt dat de Switch niet oververhit raakt.
Je kunt de koelpasta hergebruiken mits je voorzichtig te werk gaat. Zorg dat de pasta schoon blijft en zorg dat het na het weer terugplaatsen goed contact maakt met zowel het koellichaam als het warmteschild.
Als je de koelpasta moet vervangen, kun je deze handleiding gebruiken om de oude pasta te verwijderen en deze te vervangen door een geschikte pasta, zoals de K5 Pro-koelpasta.

How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

Youji Hong - 27/08/19

Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

MacTek - 15/12/19

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

Diego Soto - 30/08/19

I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

Adam Stillman - 06/09/19

No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

MacTek - 15/12/19

Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

Shawn Christensen - 20/12/19

Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

Amanda Nally - 12/03/21

Hi Amanda,

Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

Arthur Shi - 12/03/21

I agree with Amanda, hopefully I don't lose any parts before I can get the paste. This seems like it should almost be included in this kit from what I've read about this repair. Mine certainly needs to be replaced. I feel like at the very least, this should be at the top of the guide and part order page in bold, red, all cap lettering.

Side note this is the only "issue" I've had of the 4 purchases I've made with ifixit. I recommend you guys every chance I get. I really enjoy doing these repairs with my son.

Zach Bryson -

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

Philip W -

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

lievjorg -

Is another thermal compound as MX4 or 6 okay as well?

Marceau -

does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incomplete

Lucas Tigy -

This step is also completely glossed over in the YouTube walkthrough, which doesn’t even hint at the existence of the pink paste.

Phokal -

Since I couldn't find decently priced K5 I used a 0.5mm thick thermal pad and that seems to have done the trick quite well.

Dupont Nicolas -

The Amazon link goes to a kit with 6 tubes of K5 Pro. Surely I don’t need 6 tubes… is this kit sufficient? https://a.co/d/5aU8kB7

JAVH -

When replacing the thermal paste, is it possible just to clean the old thermal off the back plate and top of the copper heatsink and just re-apply those areas only, without removing that copper heatsink?

Linn Mckay -

I forgot to buy the thermal paste, and I very gently removed the metal plate... So in the end, I put it back with the old paste, and started (YEAH, it worked!!!) and followed the temperatures with a thermal gun, with TOTK playing on the screen to check if that could be a problem. This device is really impressive on this particular point, as I started to consider my gun had issues.

If you can, buy this paste, it is still cheaper than a new Switch.

FonZ wayne -

Stap 14

Gebruik de punt van je spudger om de batterijaansluiting in een rechte beweging uit het contact op het moederbord omhoog te duwen.

be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

Nathan McKenna -

This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

Dawn Martin -

it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

just some mango -

This step just ruined my device… wish there had been a warning of caution here.

Phone guy -

You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.

Brian Edgin -

I came at this from the right side (opposite) to where the images show. It was easy as I could use the point of the spudger as a lever to slowly remove the pins.

Efren Munoz, Jr. -

Stap 15

Dien een aantal druppels lijmverwijderaar of hoog geconcentreerde (>90%) isopropyl alcohol toe aan de bovenkant van het reces waarin de batterij zich bevindt. Op deze manier verzwak je de lijm en wordt het makkelijker de batterij te verwijderen.
Zorg dat je, als je gebruik maakt van lijmverwijderaar, deze voorbereidende stappen eerst volgt.

you gqve me a rag with 70% or higher pad

md cu -

I found a better method of removing the battery:

1. Get isopropyl in the battery groove. (I used 70%)

2. Use the spudger to lift a corner slightly.

3. Use dental floss to under the corner and carefully floss under the battery. This will remove the adhesive in a very clean and easy way because you allow the isopropyl to get further down!

StankIntern -

this is the way.

Brian Duffy -

Yes, floss is the way to go. Started getting the floss under upper right corner then after flossing some, I worked the floss under the upper left corner. More flossing and adding alcohol and battery came loose.

John Coleman -

I also didn’t manage to get the battery out using the recommended method on a Day 1 Switch.

At work we use „Industrie Clean“ by Würth, for removing residue of adhesives. This worked like a charm on the batteries adheisive after torturing it with 99% Isopropanol for 20 minutes. Maybe it was the combination of both, I don’t know.

https://eshop.wuerth.de/Produktkategorie...

Oliver T. -

Could I use a heat gun on a low setting for this part?

ZaM -

I tried this with the removal kit. Didn't work.

If someone isn't going to use the floss method, heat the battery (I used iOpener) and drop in drops of acetone. A metal Jimmy was helpful, then use a credit card or thin hard plastic to help pry the battery off.

Efren Munoz, Jr. -

Stap 16

Kantel de bovenkant van het toestel naar boven zodat de isopropyl alcohol onder de batterij kan lopen.
Houd het toestel gedurende 1-2 minuten omhoog zodat je de alcohol de tijd geeft om de lijm te verzwakken.

Stap 17

Steek een van je openingsplectrums in de opening tussen de batterij en de zijkant van het reces waar de batterij zich in bevindt.
Duw de punt van je openingsplectrum op voorzichtige wijze onder de batterij en schuif deze langs de bovenkant om een begin te maken met het doorsnijden van de lijm.
Ga voorzichtig te werk en voorkom dat je de batterij met je tool verbuigt of beschadigt—een doorboorde of verbogen batterij kan gevaarlijke chemicaliën lekken of een gevaarlijk thermisch ongeluk veroorzaken.

I'm sad to say, this kit did not work out for me. I must be one of the unlucky ones whose battery was glued to the case with the mother of all super adhesives, because despite following the instructions and using copious amounts of isopropyl alcohol, the battery absolutely refused to budge. The pictures show the blue pick wedged under the battery, but I was not able to get that far. Not even close.

To add insult to injury, during the process of working the pick back and forth to get under the battery, the pick jumped the case housing and nicked one of the cables below the battery. So now I'm out $50 for the ifixit repair kit along with a broken Nintendo Switch.

This is why I hate self repair: Because the attempt at self-repair always leaves me in a worse state than if I had simply taken the device to a professional. Wish I had listened to my instincts instead of giving self-repair a try.

Kie Rhee - 13/01/23

I struggled to remove the battery using 91% alcohol as well. In another guide I saw that a heat gun works better. I used my heat gun and it removed much much easier.

James Covey -

If you have problems here, try slipping the pick under the "bottom" edge instead. It seemed to slide under better for me from that angle.

Andrew Hamberg -

Please remember to consider the complexity of the self repair. This is considered moderate - but that is a moderate for someone with confidence in self repair. If you “hate” self repair then I would not suggest doing anything above the lowest difficulty. Sorry to hear about your attempt and I hope it works out for you.

Justin (WizardRiot) -

I would suggest to insert a spudger from the cable side, to slight lift the battery, instead of inserting a pick from the other side.

tliu93 -

Thats what did the trick for me. Tried several minutes from the other top side of the Switch but finally made it from the cabel side of the battery. Used some Isopropyl alcohol right from the start but couldnt lift the battery from the top side.

ShedaoShai -

Could not the the glue to dissolve. Worked better with my heatgun.

Johan Samuelsson -

I tried to do this with the 90 % alcohol but wasn't working so I grabbed my wife's Dyson hair dryer and within 1 minute it was off. I was ready to give up but the hair dryer worked perfectly. Great instructions. Get a magnet pad to organize the screws.

Michael Brown -

Working from the cable side did the trick for me. Put 3 squirts of 90% alcohol and then worked with a card, pick and spudger on the battery. It took about 5 minutes of gentle prying, but the battery did free itself and no damage was done.

meh -

plus 1 for a blow dryer on the battery for approx. 2 min. Then inserted spudger from the battery connector side and it had a clean release with very little glue residue.

Christopher Edgar -

Cable side starting with a pick and switching to an old ID card worked for me, wasn't budging from the top

Pk11 -

The provided picks are really not those of the Destiny. I do not know how much glue put Nintendo to hold the battery but it is between "way too much" and "one tube per Switch".

I had to use the metal spreader from my full I-Fixit kit and do it gently, baby step and at the end, it worked.

Take your time and that will work (maybe).

FonZ wayne -

Stap 18

Laat je openingsplectrum op z'n plek zitten en dien wat extra druppels lijmverwijderaar of isopropyl alcohol toe in het reces van de batterij.
Kantel de bovenkant van het toestel naar boven en wacht ongeveer 1-2 minuten zodat je de alcohol de tijd geeft om in te trekken en de lijm te verzwakken.

Top side didn't work even after using isopropyl alcohol. I dabbed the picks and a credit card in the alcohol and then inserted it in the top gap to get the IPA in there. After the battery was removed I saw that the IPA was there but didn't really help me with the removal as the battery didn't budge.

I then did the same thing for bottom side around where the wire is. I think the battery there has a slope as well which makes it easier to slowly work the picks under there. There was a gurgling or soft ripping sound as the IPA made it in deeper and the glue separated which was a little scary. The picks made it in deeper. Using the gray spudger also helped but I guess I could have used my credit card which would be safer.

EdgarsS -

Stap 19

Schuif je openingsplectrum verder langs de bovenkant van de batterij en snijd meer van de lijm onder de batterij door.

Stap 20

Als er eenmaal genoeg ruimte is, steek je een plastic kaart onder de batterij en wrik je deze langzaam en op voorzichtige wijze omhoog.
Dien, als je moeite hebt met het loswrikken van de batterij, wat meer isopropyl alcohol toe.
Wees voorzichtig en zorg dat je de batterij niet verbuigt bij het loswrikken.
Verwijder de batterij.
Hergebruik de batterij niet nadat deze is verwijderd, aangezien dit altijd een potentieel risico met zich meebrengt. Vervang je verwijderde batterij altijd door een nieuwe.

I carefully took the spongy part on the top of this battery and applied it to the new battery. No where in this guide does it recommend replacing that part. So I erred on the side of since I could get it off easily enough to just keep it on the new one just in case.

Josh Reed -

I initially dumped a lot of IPA in the way as per the diagram, however after pushing it around for about 10 minutes it did not budge. I stuck the credit card thing on the end very carefully and was then able to lift up the battery and remove it. I had to push the batter wire up but as I was not reusing it I did not care.

TA Warner -

Stap 21

Gebruik wat lijmverwijderaar of isopropyl alcohol en een stofvrije doek om de lijmresten in de batterij-inkeping te verwijderen voordat je de nieuwe batterij installeert.
Als je nieuwe batterij niet met vooraf geïnstalleerde kleefstrips is geleverd, kun je deze handleiding gebruiken om op maat gesneden kleefstrips op de onderkant van je nieuwe batterij te bevestigen.

I think the adhesive strips must be old, because it was an absolute PITA getting both sides to separate. I wound up getting a razor blade to get under the non-adhesive side with the iFixit logo.

mbelanger -

Conclusie

Om je toestel weer in elkaar te zetten, volg je deze instructies in omgekeerde volgorde.

Zorg dat je je nieuwe batterij, voor een optimale performance, kalibreert na het voltooien van deze handleiding.

Breng je e-afval naar een door R2 of e-Stewards gecertificeerde recycler.

Ging je reparatie niet zoals gepland? Bezoek dan onze pagina over probleemoplossing of stel je vraag op ons Nintendo Switch-antwoordenforum voor hulp bij het oplossen van je probleem.

Auteur

Craig Lloyd

Lid sinds: 10/02/16

39656 Reputatie

61 commentaren

Can anyone confirm that Switch will NOT work with the battery removed or dead (dead as in once it’s totally non-functional as all lithium batteries eventually are, not dead as in just discharged but the battery works).

PSP works with the battery dead or pulled, as far as I know DS, 3DS, Vita and Switch do NOT, which is a gigantic design flaw.

Tester - 24/12/19

Yes. The battery of my Switch has been wearing down over some time, to the point where I had to charhe the device for some hours to even activate it - it isn't functional without a working battery.

Helen Winkler -

I would highly recommend against keeping dead batteries in any system, as this can cause damage to the motherboard of the device. If you experience your Switch randomly turning off while its battery is dead, immediately seek to get the battery removed or replaced.

While it is considered rare, dead batteries can sometimes reverse in polarity when its voltage is too low. This can damage the motherboard or other components unexpectedly.

Reboot - 27/06/23

Why can't you reuse the switch's battery?, if I'm just replacing the shell of the switch and have to move the battery why can't I reuse the battery in the new shell?

Matt - 09/03/20

Good question!

For safety reasons, we strongly discourage people from reusing a battery once it has been removed. Bending a lithium-ion battery even slightly can create uneven spots between the thin layers inside the battery. The battery may function fine for awhile, but over time and charge cycles, the uneven area can wear down faster, eventually resulting in an electrical short. The battery would fail, swell up, and possibly catch on fire.

Arthur Shi - 29/01/21

I left my switch off for months, and now I cant charge it in anyway. It was a hacked switch, it doesnt turn on, doesnt indicate that's its charging or show anything on screen even after being plugged in for few days, does replacing the battery fix my issue?

Matt B - 22/04/20

Hi Matt. With a modded switch, once the battery loses power you will not see anything on the screen while it is charging. After plugging it in for a while just try booting it in the method you normally do. (I prefer using the RCM loader tool as it lets you bypass the annoying jig method.) If that doesn’t work for you, then yes, it’s most likely your battery. Hope that helps!

Rich Isaninja - 01/10/20

I am in exactly the same situation and have ordered this kit to see if it will resurect the hacked switch before I drop 499 on a new one. I'll report back in a few days once I get this done

SYSDmg -

I have a switch in the same state did replacing the battery fix it for you?

Colin Hickey -

I would recommend plugging in your Switch to a computer (preferably with the libusbk driver installed). If your computer recognizes the Switch, and even better, if tegrarcmsmash gui shows that a Switch is detected in recovery mode, this means that your Switch is softbricked, and you'd need to figure out how to unbrick it. If nothing is detected at all, this means your Switch, the connected cable, or either of the USB sockets of your computer/Switch might be malfunctioning. Try different cables and ports, and if that doesn't help, you might need to troubleshoot further or send your Switch in for repair.

Reboot -

This helped me, my power button isn't responsive and had to turn it off and on. I skipped the battery and just pulled the chip with tweezers blow on it and put everything back together.

I had a problem taking off the plastic on the back near the earphone jack on step 6, you might want to give tips on how to remove it easier.

Francis Evaristo - 07/05/20

I’m a little new to this scene, but I am curious. Do you have to replace it with the same type of battery that comes with the switch or are you able to buy a different battery to possibly upgrade the switches battery life?

Do both switches run the same battery? and if not, are you able to install the Switch V2 battery into the V1 console?

Hopefully i’m making sense lol, thank you :D

Austin Braun - 07/05/20

The Switch v2 has the same battery as the launch-model Switch. The newer one gets better battery life through a more efficient CPU.

io mintz - 19/05/20

Once the battery has been replaced, should the console boot immediately?

Samuel Ruey - 07/08/20

I got an error 2101-0001 when booting my battery! TToTT this at least means the battery works but should I fix something else!

Charlotte Marino - 15/09/20

Great guide and thread! Thank you.

Michael Yewell - 27/11/20

This was a very good video but a couple helpful comments. My switch had a stripped head on one joycon side that required me to drill out the screw a bit to make a new groove for the screwdriver bit. This was a brand new switch mind you. Anyway, the metal shield required the removal of 6 screws - not five as shown in the video. In the video, a screw hole is there with no screw, but I had the screw in the bottom right. The battery was a pain to remove with respect the adhesive that was used. It took more than a card to pull out and I crapped a little bit of the inside dividers. All said and done, the switch put back together just fine, no extra screws, and powered on and seems to work well.

Brian - 22/01/21

Just did this to my sons switch and all works well…easy

michael ellifritz - 15/03/21

I can’t seem to find the step where you use the thermal paste? Am I missing something?

Federico Zivolo - 10/04/21

The thermal paste/thermal pad is for the shield plate step found here.

Arthur Shi - 12/04/21

I have a modded switch that will no longer charge and will not turn on. Should i replace the battery?

nater2k2 - 13/04/21

What type of mod did you do? a hardware mod or a software mod?

Daniele Carminati - 14/04/21

My switch battery is puffed up (i didnt poke at it or anything) and I'm getting a replacement soon, as soon as I opened it the battery puffed up more, I disattached it, im scared to remove it since it started fuming, what do I do???

Christian Santos - 26/04/21

Throw the battery that fumed away, and wait for the new one to come.

Daniele Carminati - 26/04/21

So i replaced the switch battery put it back together, and when i try to turn it on it shows the nintendo logo and then turns off, is that supposed to happen or did i do something wrong?

King Steven - 15/05/21

Did you calibrate your battery after replacement?

Daniele Carminati - 16/05/21

This is a great guide and I should have read it more thoroughly before I placed my order. The repair kit really should include a spot of thermal paste along with the precut adhesive. That’s my only complaint. I really had no difficulty removing the battery, I used a very flexible thin guitar pick to start the “glue-slicing’ step, then I used the metal spudger from another iFixit kit to help gently pry the battery out. Came out in one piece with all the adhesive stuck on the battery.

mkeehnel -

I had trouble reconnecting the battery. I feel like this tutorial would benefit from one extra step clarifying the proper way of reconnecting the new battery, as I almost broke something in the process. Or maybe I’m the only one lol. Either way, this was a great help! Thank you

Carissa Frost -

I haven’t used my Switch in a while and since I started using it again, it’ll says my battery is 100%, but when I turn it on without it being plugged in it shuts off within 5 seconds. When I turn it on while it’s plugged in and then unplug after 10 seconds it keeps running fine until I go into sleep mode and this process starts over again. Does this sound like a problem a new battery would fix? I tried several of the reboot/reset steps on the internet without success

Laurens van Heems -

What is the usual method for booting a switch mine may have this fault dosnt indicate charge while trying to charge

joannemurray4 -

Thank you for the step-by-step. Other than the magnetic work-mat, what would be some standard tools for someone to have for projects like this, or screen replacement on a phone, etc.?

Jody Cloutier -

Hi Jody, that's a great question!

I recently replaced the joysticks in both of my joy-cons and the battery in the Switch, itself. I used my ProTech Toolkit to do the bulk of the work. For the battery, I had to clean up the existing thermal paste and apply a new layer to the heat sink when I was done so I used Arctic Silver ArctiClean and Arctic Silver Thermal Paste (these are a personal preference in brand, you can use others.)

As far as screen replacements on phones, the Pro Tech Toolkit will get you pretty far. An extra thing I'd add for that would be an iOpener. In addition, and depending on the phone you're repairing, you may need replacement adhesives (here are examples for the Google Pixel 4 Rear Panel and the iPhone 12 Pro Max Rear Panel.) Luckily we have a ton of replacement guides which will let you know what extra part you'll need to complete the repairs!

Let me know if you have any more questions!

Amber Taus - 08/02/22

Can I use Ethyl Alcohol for the removing part?

Manimanocas -

Yes, this works. Alcohol-based solutions should help in removing the battery chamber adhesive effectively.

Reboot -

I left my switch off for about a month and a half and now it doesn't turn on. Is that a battery problem or what I've tried all booting methods and I need help with this one.

Tyler Seelbinder -

Habe you charged it since then? Batteries usually lose power over time when not used.

Helen Winkler -

How do you dispose of the old battery?

Yano Dava -

Yano, read all about that here!

Carsten Frauenheim -

Hey guys, you have skipped the part where batterry is sticked by some glue in there (on the video, luckily its on the page here in written form so all good). Probably wasn't the first time you were doing it on this switch. :-)

Daniel Čech - 08/09/22

Do you need to reapply thermal compound before putting the switch back together?

ARandomGuy231 -

The battery I buy didn't come with foam ?
And I put everything back in without changing the thermal paste ?

Jean-Sébastien Wiedemann -

Is the K5 thermal compound needed specifically or can a PC thermal paste such as Thermal Grizzly be used?

Xaxus -

Any thermal putty would work in this scenario. Thermal paste is finer and can dry much more easily in a Nintendo Switch, simply because there is more space inbetween layers of the heat sinking components. (backplate, heatsink).

Theoretically you could apply regular thermal paste on the heatsink, then thermal putty or thermal pads on the backplate side, but I wouldn't recommend it personally for the sake of consistency.

Reboot -

I did a battery replacement on my Nintendo it was previously dead for a while how long until it powers back on it’s been on the charger since I entered the new battery

Louise Minxy -

I bought a Switch battery set from you and installed it.

Unfortunately, the battery does not charge. Even after hours no sign that the Switch is charging.

Alois Huber -

So i just replaced the battery with the kit you recommended. Thanks by the way switch turned on fine but when i put the charger on it. It turns off the switch and goes blank. If the cord is on one side it makes no noise shows no sign of charging . But If i flip the other side of cord it makes a low pitch noise and its not the fan im sure of it but it doesn’t charge either. Thanks in advance

Alfredo Mascote -

This guide was great! A few things to note:

The old battery was really stuck in there, and even with the alcohol soaking into the adhesive, I still had to grab a flat, metal tool to pry the battery out to counter the strength of the adhesive. The metal gave me more prying power to lift the battery out. I did this carefully so the battery wouldn't be punctured.

I reassembled everything, however, the Nintendo Switch was going to the boot screen and turning off. I took off the back cover again and found upon closer inspection that my battery connector wasn't securely plugged down. The new wires were too stiff and lifted it off the contacts. I used some leftover tape and a thermal pad on top of the battery connector to make it stay put. Before completely reassembling, I plugged the Nintendo Switch it and it showed the typical charging screen.

After that, I followed the calibration instructions for the battery. I can definitely notice my gaming sessions lasting much longer on a single charge.

Kathy McCarthy - 16/11/23

I've never done anything like this before, so I was very stressed out with the idea of opening my switch. But the guide was very well detailed, and my switch is now saved! I recommend reading the comments on the steps you are confused on because they might save you from ruining parts of your console. Also try to get at least 70% isopropyl alcohol and tweezers since they don't come with the kit (dental floss can also be really useful to remove the battery).

Duk -

I’d recommend making sure to get 90% plus because I used 70% and I must have punctured the battery, but it started smoking and I think it was because it reacted with the water content. After I was convinced that it was OK I came back with 91% and was able to dissolve the adhesive and get it off.

Dan Weintraub -

On the battery clip, one of the side clips that I "think" helps keep the battery in place is missing or broken off! Would I need to replace it with a new one?

Thanks for any replies.

James.

James -

Danke für die super Anleitung hat alles bestens geklappt 👍👍

Andreas Hiss -

I just replaced the battery (replaced the thermal paste as well) and the battery gets warm really fast. Is this a sign of incorrect installation?

landon -

I installed the new battery but my switch isn't working right. When I plug it in (switch AC adapter or generic usb-c charger) it does not show the battery charging icon on the screen. When I try to turn it on, the nintendo logo (not switch) logo flashes before returing to a black screen. I get no logo when the switch is unplugged. I tried charging the switch for a long time and leaving it unplugged for a long time. I also tried the different boot button combinations, no dice. What could be the problem and how could I fix it?

Crimsonfox64 -

A few things that may help others:

- Where the guide suggests using a PH 000 screwdriver, I found more success in using a PH 00.

- Reconnecting the battery requires pushing the battery connector down quite hard. The white connector should sit almost flush with the black port; if the white connector is quite raised still then it won't be connected and your switch won't charge or turn on.

- If the switch shows a Nintendo logo before immediately turning off, and the switch fails to charge, you likely haven't pushed the battery connector down fully.

- You can test that the battery is properly connected immediately after connecting the battery connector by turning the switch on. You do not need to reassemble the switch or reconnect the SD card port first.

Tom O'Brien -

I have been doing repairs almost from dawn of IFIXIT time with IFIXIT Guides. This guide is one of the most complete easiest ones that I have ever used. The repair process was successful. The battery and repair kit that I purchased from IFIXIT was perfect. My son could not be more pleased.

ershler -

Der Tausch von Akku und Lüfter (separate Anleitung) ging einfach vonstatten. Die Anleitung ist echt gut und leicht verständlich. Man sollte aber gewohnt sein, mit extrem kleinen Anschlüssen, Schrauben und Platinen zu arbeiten, da alles da drin recht klein ausgelegt ist und keine Toleranz für grobschlächtiges Arbeiten erlaubt! Meine Switch ist nun wieder wie neu :) - Danke iFixit!

The swapping of battery and fan (separate instruction) was fairly manageable. The instructions are easy to understand. One should be used to handle with extremely finnicky connectors, screws and circuits as the components are really small and do not allow any tolerance for rough handling at all! My Switch is good as new again :) - Thank you iFixit!

gerhardkoschany - 16/01/25

Nachtrag: Leider gibt es ein Problem. Obschon ich die Anleitung zur Kalibrierung der Austauschbatterie befolgt habe (100% Aufladen und mindestens 2h weiterladen lassen, dann kompletter Rundown, dann nochmal 100% Aufladen), meldet die Konsole trotz 91% Ladung bereits niedrigen Batteriestand. Beim Aufladen zieht die Konsole keinen Strom (0W). Harter Neustart ohne Erfolg. Austausch-Batterie defekt?

Addendum: Even though I followed the steps for calibration of the replacement battery (charge 100%, let charge for additional 2h, then rundown till turnoff and recharge to 100%) the console shuts down with 91% remaining battery. Hooking the console to charger shows no power drain (0W). Hard reboot without any success. Replacement battery defective?

gerhardkoschany -

95% of the time in this guide was spent dealing with the battery removal. Everything else was cake. Resurrected an otherwise dead switch. Didn't come with microfiber cloth or the padding on the original battery but oh well I guess. Also need compound and alcohol.

Jesse Russell -

When replacing the battery, do I need to replace the pink stuff on the shield? Also, should I have invested in foam padding? I wasn’t aware of these when I purchased the kit and it’s not included, so… I hope it won’t ruin my Switch with me not doing it right away if it needed to be done.

Kourtney Berringer -

If anyone is seeing messages from your switch that say battery console low and the console is about to go to sleep or anything like that and this is with your original battery then you should read articles on calibration and try and follow those directions before you decide you need a new battery. It could be that somehow your battery is fine and it got miscalibrated like it was dead for too long or something like that. I didn’t think about doing that and I got this battery replacement and got the battery replaced per the instructions and I still had to go through the calibration and it did work and those messages finally stopped appearing. So again, be sure to follow the calibration instructions either here on I fix it or finding where the link in these guidance pages sends you to on the web.

Dan Weintraub -

Just place IPA under the opening where the connector is and pry up. Best method, this Guide is dangerous

Soul -