iPhone 6 Vervanging van het LCD-scherm en de digitizer

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

These screws are tiny, and the first two are the biggest of the lot. Get a magnifying glass or good reader glasses.

I have to use the P2 right?

The best advice I can give is not to perform this operation over carpet.

I'm an amateur, but I was able to replace the parts almost perfectly while looking at this explanation, thank you very much.

was fairly easy more nerves than anything, one thing one should have on hand is alcohol just in case its needed. also if one doesn’t get the entire tape strips out, use the alcohol like suggested and lift the battery up. Then can grab the remaining tape strips with tweezers and pull it out. Easy to put back together just make sure the connectors are in. The screws are tiny so take your time. I plugged it in and it started charging and it worked. Great to have my 6 back for a trip as I wanted to use it for the camera, also my game phone so nice to have a battery that lasts. Yes having a flat place to put the parts and put them in separate area so they don’t get mixed up. It took about a hour with hunting for a spare bottle of alcohol.

The first step should always to be to backup your phone as there is always a slim chance that even a simple battery replacement may render the phone inoperable and data on it lost.

You dont need to remove sim card while battery replacement

Did mine today, with iFixit battery and iFixit tool kit. Did not need suction cup, to open case, as it had partially sprung open on left, as a result of a badly swollen battery. Supported base and screen with a bookend and rubber bands. This kept these parts at a 90 degree angle, so that screen did not need to be removed. IFixit screwdriver tips were perfect fit. Somewhat difficult to remove battery adhesive strips, but slow and steady got it done, after mild heating with hair dryer. Took about 3 minutes to reposition battery connector…just a wee bit tricky, to position correctly. Was careful to place top of screen in place first, and remainder snapped into place with light pressure, and replaced the 2 pentalobe screws.

Will highly recommend iFixit for such a repair. Repair kit and battery, are first rate. I give this an 11, out of 10.?

Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

Duck Tape worked great for me. Thanks for the great instruction!

Tried several types of tape but finally used this screw driver solution. At first I wasn't pushing hard enough for fear of damaging things but with just a bit of extra force I was able to open it right up. Everything is fine with only a slight scratch on the frame.

How do you know Tom>

Suction cup pictured here is the older version (with ring). I have one from my previous battery replacement on iPhone 5 and used that instead. The new one (gray with blue handle) kept on popping off. Overall, popping out screen was not as hard as it seems with these instructions, but do proceed with caution.

Dion's idea to use removable adhesive strips was great, even better, use it to attach the iPhone to a clipboard. This will allow for a sort of Lazy Susan function while you work. I also used adhesive strips to attach my iPhone box to the clipboard as well and used that as a back rest (with rubber band) for the screen as pictured in steps below. This allowed me to very comfortably skip steps 13-19 as others have commented.

The new suction cup (plastic handle) is not so suctiony. Prepare for this thing to pop off a couple of times when opening the case.

Be very careful because it feels that it holds very tight but with the last pull it can fly away.

Be very careful when you pull up the display! Do not keep your other hand on the display surface or you can broke it!

I did all the suggestions here and it just wasn’t moving until I repositioned the suction cup up over the home button for more leverage. It finally came up enough to slip the plastic opening tool under the edge.

Well, my glass immediately and easily shattered. The only reason I’m attempting this is because Apple didn’t have time and the kids at Best Buy, while they accepted my appointment, admitted they had no idea how to actually do it. So… I’m off to Apple to spend a gazillion dollars I don’t have on a new iPhone.

dont have a panel so idk know cant buy one help please !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Suction cup with blue handle is so stiff it would not hold a suction. I ended up putting it in very hot water for about 5 minutes before I was ready to use it, that did the trick.

The MORE iFixit plastic tools you have available for this step the merrier. It was effortless with two.

My problem is the front panel does not want to joint together with the rear panel… it feel like the front is too big but it look perfect but does not clip in place… Help…

same problem, in the final step, the screen does not fit entirely. it looks like the size is not 100% correct, but 99%… one side of the case stays open…

Same thing here, with a new screen it doesn’t fit quite right during re-assembly. It sits just a little bit higher and doesn’t look seated.

Hola soy de Guatemala Me pueden ayudar a saber si puedo cambiar las partes de un A1589 a un A1549 iPhone 6

Good thing am reading this prior to beginning any disassembly or re assembly. Thanks guys for the great tips

I'm going to try it this way, because the odds of damaging the connector during removal seem greater than the risk of ripping the cable, however, I plan to cradle the phone in the "L" of simple, sheet metal bookend, and secure it using blue painter's tape. Seems more stable.

If you do this step carefully- (rubber band the front panel, and carefully peel away the battery adhesive) you can SKIP 13 THRU 19!

Rubber band and a large can of soup held the front in place. Go slow, steady firm pressure. Take the vibrator out though. Makes pulling the adhesive tape out much easier. Great video and written instructions!

I decided to do the repair on my iPhone 6 without detaching the screen. I ended up screwing two pieces of 3/4” x 3” x 6” wood together at right angles. I used 2 rubber bands to secure the screen to the vertical piece and 1 rubber band to secure the base to the horizontal piece. One of the two adhesive strips broke and I had to really work to get the battery out. The rubber bands held everything together nicely. The wood pieces were slightly wider than the phone which made it easy to hold everything together while I was working the adhesive strip out.

I feel like I just pulled off a minor miracle, successfully detaching and reattaching those four connectors. In the past I have also used the lean-against-a-box variant. Now I carefully apply several short pieces of painter’s tape to create a temporary “hinge,” in combo with the lean-against-a-box variant. If the bottom piece could be SUCCESSFULLY SECURED [painter’s tape loops?] to my work surface this should avoid needing to deal with the four connectors. IMPORTANT NOTE: At the end of the day this repair will ALWAYS be about pulling the white stretchy adhesive tape out from under the battery. And again the painter’s tape comes into play. This last battery replacement when I started to pull out the two adhesive strips I also, several times, applied enough tape to combine the strips and form a single grab point. Also, removing the “vibration” block allowed the the pull angle to be insanely shallow. Slowly-but-surely, both strips successfully emerged and battery was totally released.

Duh, had the cover on the wrong way. Switched it around and the screw fit. (:

Using the Phillips 000 screwdriver included in the kit, I am able to remove the 3.2 mm screw, but not the 2.2 mm one.

None of the screwdriver heads in this kit are big enough for these screws!!! I now have an open iphone and i have to go to the store to buy a different screwdriver..I do not recommend this

I'm stuck in the same boat here. The one screw came out no problem but the second isn't catching at all.

Stuck with Jameison and Brian here... 2.2mm won't catch with all three provided screwdrivers.

Agreed, the screwheads included in this kit didn’t work for me either. Fortunately my own toolbox has an appropriate screwdriver…. Seeing as how we are paying for this kit so we don’t need to purchase extra tools, iFixit should really include screwheads that actually work!

When putting everything back together, I took care of steps 10-12 (or, more accurately 12-10) after reinserting the SIM (so between steps 20 & 19). It was easier to do before dealing with reconnecting the screen.

why do i buy a kit from you guys but you don’t provide the necessary tools for unscrewing

i dont have any screwdrivers at home the 2.2mm simply wont come off its ridiculous now i just have an open phone

I had to use Phillips #00 for the 3.2mm (orange) and #0 for the 2.2mm (red). The #000 screw driver came in the toolkit is useless on both screws so I had to go out and buy new ones from a hardware store…

My two screws are the same diameter - 1.1mm, taking a Philips PH000 driver. However the one toward the middle is 3.3mm long, the one nearer the side is 2.2mm long.

The Phillips in the repair kit worked fine. I did 2 phones with it.

Just a followup to all the comments above for anyone who is confused: the drivers included in the repair kit work fine, assuming you know how to use a screwdriver correctly in the first place. There are quite a few folks who never learned, and that’s nothing to be ashamed of—in fact it’s common enough that we made a guide for it. Those bits were designed first and foremost to work with iPhone screws and have been extensively, extensively tested. You may come across stubborn screws or strip the heads if you’re not careful, and maybe that’s why some folks here are having trouble. In the very rare event that you actually received a malformed bit of some kind due to a manufacturing defect (which should be clear just from looking at it up close), reach out to customer service and they’ll get you squared away.

I just completed the battery replacement and I too found that the PH000 did not sit properly in either the 3.2 or 2.2 mm screws. Using a magnifying glass it seemed that the PH000 driver bit did not sufficiently fill the space of the screw. I happen to have the iFixit Pro Kit and used the PH00 driver bit instead, and this seemed to fill the space of both screws much better leading to successful extraction and replacement. My lack of experience with phone repair may have been a factor, but it seemed at least for my particular phone the PH00 was the proper driver bit for these two screws.

The PH000 screwdriver I received cannot remove the smaller screw…

@jeffsu

Nope. Actually turns out that ifixit just sent me a defective screwdriver that only was poorly sized and only managed to catch one of the screws. I had to order a new PH000 Screwdriver on Amazon and it got the screws out instantly and I was able to repair my phone.

I used the “Maximum” precision set from Canadian Tire and the PH#00 works nicely for both these screws.

Screws in mine required different size drivers also - maybe because refurbished? But have had the same probs on mbps also. Felt silly but followed Jeff’s suggestion to look at the screwdriver best practice guide and realised I was stripping screws by using too small a driver - have a couple either side of the suggested size and use the largest one that catches - I mainly used PH#0 & 00, though some screws needed #000, and there wasn’t any consistency to which screws needed which driver.

You’ll want to secure each screw as you remove it - if you sneeze they will fly away and you’ll never find them. I recommend having a small bowl or container for each screw you remove and label them for reassembly.

I was worried about getting the screws mixed up, so I used Sharpies to color-code each screw before I removed it (red, orange, or yellow - corresponding to the iFixit illustrations) When I marked the screw, the bracket got some color on it too, so when I was replacing the screw, I was confident that I was putting the right screw into the right position.

I also made a template-board by tracing an outline of the phone in the center of a piece of cardboard, and then gluing pieces of masking tape onto the cardboard, sticky-side up, one piece of tape for each bracket I removed. I drew an outline of the part on the tape, and made a red or orange or yellow dot for each screw that came from the bracket. It made it super-easy to keep track of the disassembly and reassembly. Took a little longer, but I didn't damage the logic board by using the wrong screw, and I was relaxed throughout the repair.

GPS and WiFi now work perfectly!!!

Thank you iFixit and commentators

Funny my one screwdriver fit all the screws with no problem!

@Paul Austin: colouring the screws is a galaxy-brain tier idea, I will definitely be doing this!

Are you just out of luck if you start to strip a screw? The first, 3.2 mm came out easily but the 2.2 mm is a little worse for wear. I’d be grateful for any tips you might have.

Turns out the included PH000 head does work with both screws. They are both the same size gauge; only difference is the length. I had the same kind of trouble as most others trying to unscrew them. But if you carefully apply consistent direct downward pressure as you turn, the screw does disengage and unscrew. It helps to stand up over the work for more leverage. And it aids in keeping the screw driver head in full contact with screw head, so it doesn’t slip and strip the head.

I am surprised by all of the comments about the screwdriver bits being the wrong size - I have done several iPhone repairs now with the tools provided by iFixit, and the screwdrivers work perfectly for me every time.

I bought the Ifixit tool kit on amazon for $70 and i don't see any 3.2 mm or 2.2 mm in the black box. does anyone know what screw i am supposed to use because i have no idea what i'm doing wrong. I opened the bottom screws on the Iphone 6 just fine but for the inside screws i dont see 3.2 or 2.2. can anyone help me? i hope I didnt waste $70 on the wrong thing.

Thanks for that tip Tonima! This is another confirmation that skipping steps 13-19 worked out great!

As an extra measure, in addition to leaving the front panel rubber banded in it's open, vertical position (I secured mine to a can of beans) and being very careful and controlled when removing the adhesive strips; before using the suction cup to separate the front panel from the rear case, I had secured the back side of the rear case to my working surface (kitchen table) with a strip of folded over duct tape (creating double sided tape). Such might not have been necessary as I held the rear case with one hand while removing the adhesive strips with the other, though it just felt safer having the rear case (as well as the front panel) well secured in place to help assure that I didn't accidentally cause any damage to those very fragile looking cables that were left connected, by any possible movements of either of the iPhone's halfs during the pulling to remove the adhesive strips.

It happened to me, by prying the battery connector with another tool I broke part of the socket off the board. However, by placing it exactly back in place the connector could be placed correctly and it works. Lucky.

I'd like a little more explanation on how to re-attach the battery connector. But in the end I lined it up and pressed gently down till it snapped into place.

I skipped the steps removing the screen only because I didn't feel confident at all doing this. For someone who is used to electronics I would really suggest removing it because I imagine the whole process would've been easier. If there's a next time, perhaps I'll do that.

The suggestions that recommend skipping step 13-19 apply to some other repair. We replaced the display, and to do so, steps 13-19 are, of course, necessary.

I wish I had seen this first! I also had the issue, now I have a permanent discoloration of the screen where the connector is pushing against the back. Hoping that it doesnt lead to other problems. This site is really lacking on the reassembly steps… shame..

I'm just wondering if my computer would still recognize my phone with the battery disconnected?

For those of you replacing the Digitizer you to need follow steps 13 - 19.

Doing a lightning connector replacement - skipped steps 13-19 as well. No problems.

Hello, Is it necessary to do step 13 to 18 if I only want to change the battery?

What does can happen if I don’t make all step?

So her guys I skipped 13 but when attaching the ribbons( which is the LCD,camera etc ) I got a little smoke while trying to attach the ribbons and now i am not seeing anything but the phone is vibrating and coming on but i cant see anything

What is the reason

Who are you kidding? Plastic tool” is cute, but totally useless for lifting that battery connector off the logic board. But the smaller of the four long-handles Metal tools iFixit sells as a set worked perfectly well.

Reattaching the battery connector was one of the more difficult parts of this repair. Once you place the battery on the rear cover and the adhesive sticks you cannot make any adjustments to position (even though I tried to just place it as lightly as possible at first). I did a dry run attaching the connector and placing the battery before removing the adhesive cover but I did not get it to sit the quite the same after removing the cover. I had to fiddle with the battery connector quite a bit to get it in place.

I use a screw ID technique similar to griffn's; I print out the PDF version of the guide, then Scotch-tape each screw type to the guide at the step where the screw was removed. The screws are then distinguished by size and type at the point where they need to be reinstalled.

i am trying but only could open 2 screws and cannot open the rest of them, can you help me??

Thanks to @griffn & @adlerpe! I've updated the tools list to include the magnetic pad, and -- for us infrequent fixers -- I made a note in the intro text to describe the sort of thing you two noted here in place of the mag pad.

Also, to @damianodessgillett & @kev - I've submitted an update to the instructions to add the caution you recommend to the step. Hopefully others will avoid the pain of the Long Screw damage.

It's possible to damage only a slot of flex cable ? I've opened my iPhone 6 but now front camera, speaker and the proximity sensor are not working. I've bought a new flex cabe to test it, but I have to be sure about that.

Do you have to remove the display to replace the battery?

I can confirm it's not necessary to remove anything other than battery bracket. If you support the screen against something as in the picture, just make sure you hold the iPhone absolutely still with one hand while pulling out the adhesive strips with the other. I also used a small piece of tape to hold the screen in place against the box while I worked.

I am now a very happy customer and am looking forward to another few years life from my awesome iPhone 6!

I left the front panel connected and it was much quicker. But, if you have to wrestle with the battery, it is much safer with the front panel removed. If you have worked on a few phone before, I'd try removing the battery with the front panel connected. If the battery is giving you problems(like if you tear the strips and have to heat the backside), you can always come back to this step.

I strongly recommend you leave the display connectors alone if you can. My battery came out without a fight, but I found the display connectors to be almost tragically delicate, and I had white lines in the display when I booted it. During the subsequent attempts to remedy that situation, things went down hill and now I'm waiting for an entirely new display to try to rescue the phone from repair oblivion.

I also skipped all of the screen-removal steps and had nary a problem. Just rubber band the screen around whatever it is propped against and I believe you'll be fine.

I totally recommend doing this step first before removing the battery connector bracket, it will be much easier and comfortable with the screen out of the way.

Also I recommend drawing the bracket on a piece of paper and place the screws on top of the respective position on the drawing, this way you won't be confused when putting them back.

I accidentally lost a 1.2mm screw while doing a screen replacement. Will this make the phone malfunction in anyway after I close it back up or its fine?

I do NOT recommend leaving the display and the rear case connected during this repair. If you run into any resistance removing the battery, or slip in the least removing it, you risk tearing the ribbon cables that attach the two pieces. I did and now I've got to replace the Front Camera and Sensor Cable. Sadness.

Any tips for removing the 1.2 mm screws? Mine won't budge at all with the PH000 and I'm afraid I'm stripping the screws.

I had to use the larger bit for ALL of the screws as the small one was too narrow at the tip to actually grab anything. It worked but made it a bit more difficult.

Is it really necessary to remove the front panel at all, can't you just ask a friend to hold it in an upright position while you work on the battery?

I also skipped steps 13 - 19. Just be very careful not to apply to much stress to the connectors in between the screen and the base. For me I also used another box to keep the base from sliding around while removing the battery.

You cannot skip these steps, of course, when you want to replace the display (which was the kind of repair we did).

When putting the little connectors in place again afterwards, I can recommend to hold the connectors to the display using a little rubber band. That way, they don’t get in the way when you put them in place one by one.

You SHOULD do the steps of removing the display. I have done battery replacements on several dozen phones. Of the ones I did NOT remove the cables, 2 of them had issues directly related to components related to these cables (front facing camera, earpiece speaker, etc.). Although tedious, I recommend removing these connectors to prevent any short circuit when reconnecting the new battery.

ACMT - 4 years.

I skipped this step and just affixed the screen to the Iphone box with a rubber band during replacement. I decided to take this risk to prevent some of the other issues that have been discussed when removing the screen. I understand it is risky because if you slip or need to use any significant force to remove the battery, disaster awaits. On my repair, it worked out fine and I ensured that I took my time and kept the bottom of the phone held to the worksurface.

There are only 2 screws when i opened mine.The centre one and the left top corner one..Is it okay to use it like that..Please help

If you can try to leave your display how it is. I removed it and it ended with white stripes and touchscreen not working. After a while it touch started to work and stripes went away. I think it was static electricity.

If you decide to go ahead with this step… I did it prior to removing the battery bracket and found it to be easier. Having the screen off made things a lot easier during the battery removal process.

Two of the screws are damaged and I can’t open them. What can I do to remove the bracket?

Stay organized with the screws with just a piece of paper. Lay them out, mark ‘em up. Go slow, take your time.

Thank you very much for that information. That's all I and I believe some other people were curious about.

That's what I thought this website was for, not post fighting over who's the smarter one and not putting others down. This isn't Facebook

well said Sare - perhaps if folk stuck to the subject instead of proving how clever they are (not) there wouldn’t be 44 comments to scroll through to find an intelligent answer

For those who are removing the digitizer, you do need to remove the bracket to get access to cable.

Definitely do NOT disconnect the screen for the battery replacement!

The battery replacement worked like a charm but now I am left with whit e stripes in the screen and touch screen functionality is lost despite many tries to get the screen reconnected.

Hello, well I accidentally put the screws back in the wrong order after replacing the charging port, phone turns on but stays on Apple screen, any suggestions? Thank you

i have replaced my iphone 6’s screen twice now, first the phones fingerprint sensor wouldn’t work ( the original one ), so i replaced the entire screen ( new fingerprint sensor), but still doesn’t work and now the phones brightness is extremely dim on both screens. So now both screens now are dim and finger print sensors dont work.

I have some issue with the 3.1 mm screw. Only this one can’t put it back, but I take off the metal that can turn it on. (I just feel 2~3 circle to turn the screw.) What it’s happen?

Thanks for your reply

even though the screw assembly has broken away from the mother board, this screw assembly was soldered in would not damage the back light or power to the phone ?

Initially thought I would skip these steps, as many people said to skip steps 13-19, but I tried proceeding without removing the front panel, and my adhesive strips simply would not remove, even with heating….so off the front panel came. Putting it back (connecting the cables back) was definitely a little panic-inducing, but managed to do it without damage - definitely watch some youtube videos!

Most companies standardize the screws on their products, but since Apple does not want you to fix your phone on its own, it has set a trap for you to damage it. I think that this criminal action may be entailing a lawsuit.

I have to use PH000 right?

Xmas day here 2020 and i decided to skip separation of the screen from the base. got the battery out no problem. did remove the vibrator plate and felt that really helped to remove the adhesive strips. just keep the screen nicely propped up and you should have no problems. not seeing any reason at all to remove the cables and screen.

Are there any other alternative i can use to unscrew the 1.7 mm screw?

Check order of cables. From screen replacement.

my problem is that the connectors are different the screen i replaced it with the connectors were longer than the broken screen even though there the exact same type of screen

Probably just have the cables out of order. Check the posts above.

"gybeho" Ok, but it's impossible to install flex cables out of order. Each one has diferent sizes of docking...

it is very possible to install flex cables out of order. to most people working on their first screen replacement they do not have the experience to notice that their flex cable connection is different than the dock connection. this causes them to press harder and force the connection into the dock, ruining the connections, if they do not think the they have the cables out of order

I'm with Andrew Midgett. The connectors are just plain different in size and orientation. My phone matches what's shown in the picture above. You can see an example of the replacement part if you search Amazon for "Sanka LCD Touch Screen Digitizer Frame Assembly Full Set Screen Replacement for iPhone 6". And Sanka isn't the only iPhone 6 replacement that looks like that, so no hating on that manufacturer here.

Does this mean that some iPhone 6 phones have one set of connectors and some have a different set? FWIW, the model on the back of my phone says A1549.

Update: Searching for iPhone 6S instead of 6 on Amazon, I see lots of replacement screens with connectors that look a lot more like what I have and what's shown in the picture above. (One connector has a horizontal orientation, the other is vertical. I can't be sure whether the pins or dimensions match otherwise.) Any wisdom here?

For everybody who thinks they can skip these steps I commend you. No way I would have been able to get my battery out - two broken strips - without removing the screen. Re-inserting these cables was not really difficult - once the first one is back in place the rest follow quickly.

I tried to reconnect these for ages until I watched a video of someone else doing it.

Don’t try to line up the connectors by looking at them with the screen leaning on a soda can, just hold the two halves in each hand and line the first one up by feel. Really. After that it’s plain sailing.

Even with great lighting I couldn’t make this work with the bits on the bench - yet when I picked them up it was really easy to feel them line up. I had all four popped back on in about 60 seconds.

Got it all connected properly but front facing camera won’t work. I heard that connector snap into place but it just doesn’t work anymore. I even took it all apart again and redid that connection but nothing. Bummer, but I’m not a selfie person, I only used it when I was holding my dog on my lap. Everything else works fine after the battery re-install so…whatever.

When I was preforming this step, while reassembling, I had to connect the digitizer cable four times. On the last time, before screwing the Front Panel Assembly Cable Bracket on, I reconnected the battery connector and turned my phone on (ensuring that I was careful not to damage any cables!) to ensure that all cables were connected correctly and that the screen was fully functional.

I'm pretty sure ifixit are pros, I used them 4 times to fix phones and no problems with using tools for flex cables.

If you still have white lines after you've tried reconnecting the connectors and power cycling. Just do a hard reset a few more times, let the phone stay on and wait a while. As long as it's not damaged, the lines will fade over the next hour or so. Your phone will be as good as new.

If my screen is giving me white lines and occasional ghost clicks on the right side does anyone know if it’s possibly only a faulty cable vs needing a full screen swap? I’d rather not waste a perfectly good screen.

what if my phone wont turn back on even after following all these steps carefully . i even put the old screen back on and it wont turn on still???

what if the batery was not disconnected?

Re-connecting display data cable was trickiest part for me - my eyes are old! I had to do it a couple of times as the cable had indeed popped off its connector, resulting in a black screen when turned on. Needs lots of patience and good lighting, also helped to have a really good look at plug and socket under magnifying glass to see how they fit together, and to reconnect using finger rather than tool - this helped me feel when I had eventually connected properly.

Followed steps to a “T” - got phone up and running successfully! However, there is a vertical line in the center of the screen that changes color with whatever button is being displayed in the center screen. For example, a dead battery icon shows a red vertical line, acknowledging a blue “OK” button when setting up the phone shows a blue vertical line, etc. Essentially it’s not a black screen or white lines. Could it be that the display data connector is not correctly attached or perhaps a faulty connector?

I finally got the cables to reconnect. I actually was being to gentle pushing them down. Line them up gently then firmly press them in place.

i went through all the steps, except i forgot to disconnect my battery, now my phone has lines and i can see horizontal pixels (as in the images are not smooth anymore). when i performed power cycle, the screen is still the same. What can i Do

During the reassembly, the ordering of the ribbons on the iFixit part at the top of the phone were mis-layered. The display data cable connector and the digitizer cable connector (steps 18 and 19 in the guide) were swapped in there ordering. This was fixed by my disassembly of the camera bracket following the guide 'iPhone 6 Front-Facing Camera and Sensor Cable Replacement'. This allowed me to fix the layered ordering of the connectors.

Is this the breaking down process for the Verizon version of the iPhone 6s? I know the flex cables were different for other versions and with my last iPhone I made the mistake of ordering one that had completely different cable places. Someone please send me a link to one that fits the Verizon 4.7 display!!!

This break down isn't for a 6S. It is for a plain 6 (no S). Yes there is some differences because of the 3D touch feature.

I had the most issues when reassembling with this step. The plastic tool is a fail in my experience since not enough pressure could be applied using it. I just ended up using my finger and that worked 10Xs better. My advice, watch a few YouTube videos of people reconnecting the connectors and you'll be fine.

I noticed that I had bent this connector. Barely. After about a dozen connect/reconnect attempts, bent it back and everything works as intended. Prior to bending it, was getting white lines and touchscreen was unresponsive. After bending and reconnecting, fired up exactly as it had prior to disassembly.

I had the exact same problem. I tried 10-20 times and the screen had vertical lines in the middle and the touch function didn't properly work. Then I discovered the issue. I had damaged the first connector (lcd connector) when reassembling the screen.

What I did was to carefully with a tweezer press the damaged ones in to the correct position. Than I heard a solid "click" when I attached it and I got really hopeful.

I finished with the rest of the connectors and put the bracket and screws back to place and hit the powerbutton. IT WORKED!

Thank you Simon - this was really helpful. I too suspected I had broken the digitizer connector also. Tried reconnecting 5 times before I saw your comment with resulting white lines and no touch screen. Applied moderate gentle force using long nose tweezer across width of connection and clicked and worked. Glad I read the comments as was looking at new digitizer purchase prior to reading your comment.

I Had two repairs on separate phones, and got sloppy on the second one and pressed the middle of this connector with my finger. It bent the right side ever so slightly. I thought I’d read the comments before ordering a new screen and I’m glad I did. I then took a closer look and saw on the right side the two rows of points at the end weren’t running parallel anymore. Using the tweezers from the kit I squeezed the misaligned rows back true and tried one more time to install, focusing on the right (previously damaged) side first to ensure it snapped into place. Voila! All is well.

Excellent instructions, great products, and REALLY HELPFUL COMMENTS! Thanks!

This was the hardest step for me. The iHold helped a lot. Used my fingers for all the connectors. Just make sure the cable that goes to the lowest connector is placed above all before trying to insert any.

I’ll strongly agree that this is the most difficult and time consuming step of reassembly. As Pau has stated it is vital that the cables are layered in the correct order before you begin attempting the connections.

Check back to Step 21. It’s not clear from the photos, but the ribbons can be run under each other. The display connection and the home button connection can become transposed at Step 21.

If in doubt, check the size of the connections and re-order accordingly.

After reassembling I have 3 letters on the virtual keyboard that don’t do anything anymore. It is the B, H and U. Could this be related to this (another) connector. (the screen is also broken but this time I only replaced the battery an it worked before this

Bonsoir je voudrais savoir si c'est possible que l'a ou l'on coche la nape de l'écran tactile peut se de fixé

Et comment faire si c'est le cad

My first attempt resulted in loss of touch response to a vertical column of app icons on the screen. From the Safari app at the bottom to the top of the screen, every app icon in that column was unresponsive to touch. Couldn’t open them. And this was true for every screen, including a corresponding bundle of letters and numbers in the same screen location when trying to use the keyboard. I did a hard reset any number of times without success until I finally realized the pattern: the vertical column of unresponsiveness.

I remembered the caveat about connecting the digitizer cable — don’t press the center, do each side — and figured I must have made a bad connection. So I opened up the case again and went all the way down to the digitizer connection and did it more carefully, as advised. Sure enough, problem solved. Take the precaution.

Replacing the digitizer cable was accomplished by moving the base to line up with the flexible connection then using a finger to press into place feeling that the connection was correct worked, then pressing into place with a click of confirmation. the rest of the cables fell into place afterword.

It would be worth noticing, either at this step or below, the order of the stripes. Reassembling the fron panel requires them in the correct order, and “follow the instructions in reverse order” is not enough if there is not a detail on how the cables are ordered.

I successfully left the screen assembly attached while replacing my battery. I even had my adhesive strips break off and had to spray isopropyl underneath the battery and then grab the strips with tweezers, but I was still ok. I can see why it’s recommended to detach the screen assembly, but if you rubberband it to a stable support and are careful not to jerk the lower case, it’s possible to accomplish the repair while skipping several steps.

I completely ripped my home button ribbon, that being attached to the LCD shield/Front Panel (steps 36-38, step 38 to be more precise). I can confirm you CAN replace the shield\attached ribbon cable. This DOES NOT disable touch ID/you do not have to ask Apple to resync the button identifier.

Just to be clear, this is assuming that you do not damage the actual home button assembly steps 29-35.

(My replacement was from a supplier who reclaims parts from iPhones, so it would/should be an Apple original)

Make sure the screen that protects the speaker is free of ear wax. It can be stopped up with ear wax and limit the output of the earpiece speaker. About 50% of the ones I have come across this was the cause of low earpiece volume. Use a small nylon hobby paint brush dipped in 91% rubbing alcohol to clean it.

After assembly my speaker didn’t function. However upon checking the flex cable was not snuggly snapped in place. After twice reassembly got it working again. So maybe before cleaning the contacts, check the flex cable connection first.

There is a white rectangular parts (about 2mm*3mm) on the front sensor , so remove it with the tip of tweezers. If it cannot be removed, it can be easily removed by applying warm air from a hair dryer.

I had the impression the double sided adhesive strip is thicker than normal under the microphone, and found it more difficult to lift than in other areas (other than the home button connector, which is adhered to a metal backing, making it extremely difficult). Fortunately, I did not rip the ribbon. Perhaps applying some heat would be advised.

Q Why is there a microphone in the ‘earpiece’? Surely there must be a microphone nearer the bottom (where your mouth would be). Are there two, perhaps for speaker/conference?

[|My microphone came with a small tab out to the left that was for adhesive. I peeled the white protection off and folded the copper colored adhesive tab under the microphone. Worked fine.]

Back on the air again! Great site for me to save money and keep my phone going after grandson “fixed it”.

Kyler sometimes that happens here too. Go back in carefully and double check the battery plug. Disconnect it and reconnect leaning down to look under the edge of the connector if necessary. Sometimes it helps. Other times just plugging the phone into the charge cord for a minute helps.

Kyler, the proximity sensor detects objects close to an active phone, so the touch screen can be shut off when the phone is in close proximity to your face (so your caller doesn’t get a bunch of “beeps” from keys being pressed by your face).,,

Next to the proximity sensor (below it, in the last picture) is a tiny, insignificant-looking piece of white tape. If I remember right, it’s only present on black screens. It’s important—transfer it. Without it, the ambient light sensor can’t work, and the phone can’t dim its screen automatically in dark rooms and brighten it in sunlight. It took me ages of doing this before I found a place where someone had pointed that out. I mean, it’s just a tiny white sticker. Seems to be true, though.

In re: Kent’s #2 above, I was fortunate to find new proximity sensor and camera frames on my new screens, and inside each proximity sensor frame is a small black piece over the notification LED (where it will be under the proximity sensor). Is that it, Kent? I hope so.

After I finished reassembling my phone, I had an annoying clicking noise when using the phone. I opened it again and found a lose screw sitting near the jack module! It’s the one you can see in step 21 picture, over the circled one on the right. It shouldn’t be removed (there’s no reason) and I absolutely don’t know how it got lose. I’ve put it back where it belongs and will see how things go. (If I don’t add anything after this comment, that means everything’s back to normal.)

HI THERE, I WAS WORKING ON IPHONE 6g. I REPLACE THE HOME BUTTON AND AFTER I FINISH THE PHONE WAS DEAD. I WENT BACK AND REPLACE LCD SHIELD PLATE. AND STILLS THE PROBLEM. WHAT ELSE CAN I DO? ANY ONE DOES HAVE ENCOUNTER THIS ISSUE BEFORE CAN YOU PLEASE HELP ME. rosyavellaneda6@hotmail.com

When going backwards, and reassembling, this is where you change from Phillips #00 driver, back to Phillips #000 driver.

Disconnecting the connector is tricky. Take your time and don't rush it. The pointed spudger end is a little thick to get under there, so I used a corner of the flat end, very carefully.

Cette étape demande vraiment de la patience. J’ai juste attendu en exerçant une faible pression et au bout d’un moment ça s’est décollé.

Il ne faut pas mettre trop de pression et avoir un bon éclairage pour voir l’état de la membrane au fur et à mesure.

Hair dryer worked the best!!! just be patient, takes like 5 min… use the tip of the spudger and skratch a little bit on the corner.

I used the heat from my halogen bulb desk lamp and it did the trick right-away

would love to know temperature allowances/tolerances here. how hot is too hot? What temp does the adhesive relax at?

How do you remove the metal backplate shield's connector [which interfaces with the home button] glued to the plastic coating on the screen?

The rubber gasket adhesion was minimal when I removed the button. I cleaned and replaced it, but it had no adhesion. I’m not sure if that’s how it is meant to be.

after placing the home button again, it dose not read my finger prints anymore! any idea? Thanks.

For all the iphone 6 series once the original home button ribbon is torn or damaged the touch ID will never work again. Even if you replace the home button/ribbon. This is a security feature implemented by Apple. Once the original cable for the phone has been damaged or replaced, the touch ID functionality is gone forever.

This is missing a step ... most replacement screen assemblies also are missing a small metal plate that sits under the place where the home button connector and flex cable connector rest. Apparently without this metal the touch ID cannot be enabled. That said .. I'll not know on this phone since after following these directions and finding out I needed to pull apart the home button a second time to place this metal plate there the connector would not separate and it ripped the flex cable from the connectors completely. Now it's time to get a new home button and touch ID will never work on this phone again :(

My new screen comes with the home button cable, if I just swap the original home button to the new front panal will I retain touch ID? Or do I need the original cable too?

if you want touch id to work the cable going from the home button to the logic board must be changed also

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IEWAQiu...

That isn't what my home button looks like? It didn't have the little sensor on it, just the button and it still worked but now doesn't... Anyone know why?

despues de serguir la guia fue exitosa solo que tengo un problema no reconoce la huella me dice error al configurar el touch id alguna solucion???

When I was transferring my home button, it was covered in tiny shards of glass as the instructions warned. I found I was able to remove many of the shards and to clean up the button by wrapping a piece of scotch tape around my finger sticky side out and then gently dabbing at the shards.

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT205628

Does this iOS update mean that it is no longer necessary to replace the cable going from the home button to the logic board as well?

The only “problem” that I had, was that the home button connector on the iFixit replacement screen assembly was “floating” and made it very difficult initially to connect the home button cable connector. i eventually glued it down to the screen assembly with some Pritt glue and the connection was easy.

I had set my phone up as an erased “new iPhone” prior to the repair. After completing this repair my Touch ID appeared to be working normally and I added 4 fingerprint profiles. After a few hours Touch ID failed and the fingerprint profiles disappeared. Attempting to add them again would not work. After performing a “Hard Reset” the previously entered fingerprints returned and functionallity has been completely normal for a couple of days now. I will repost if another failure occurs.

When moving original home button to new screen, a tiny dab of adhesive from a Pritt Stick helped hold the cable onto the front panel. Great guide, all worked well, and touch ID working, thanks.

My home button was extremely loose when installed in this fashion. To help remedy it, I installed the gasket sandwiched between the button and glass instead of on the rear face of the button. Not perfect, but a much better feel. Prior to that, the button actually stuck out further than the glass.

So my repair went off without a hitch, but my home button when I click it kinda has a hollow-like sound/feel to it, is it something I did wrong?

You didn’t show removing the top part, camera, etc.

I did not have a hair dryer on hand so I used the metal tweezers very carefully to lift the gasket and connector. Reinstalling it was tricky but I found sticking the connector back onto the two tiny pins made it a lot easier to guide the button into place.

I replaced my battery and my screen on an Iphone 6 for under $100. My phone looks and works like new. Great online tutorial, just go slow and be careful. I dropped a screw in the carpet and thought I was screwed. By some miracle I spotted it, the size of a pin head. Use a magnetic try if possible and do the work over a tile floor. I’m 66 years old, you can do it!

On the screen I purchased from iFixit, the the connector’s cable was .5mm too long so that it wouldn’t fit on the two tiny pins. But I have put it all back together and it works great.

My IFixIt kit worked well. Gifted to me by a friend along with the project tray. The tiny screws are hard to handle, but the guide got me through. The phone charged and turned on like the screen was never dead. Only thing is the home button doesn’t respond to fingerprints. No big deal for me. Thanks for the great products and instructions.

The new screen from your Store came with not one—but 2—screws, and they were loose in the package. I used one where the photo shows a screw in the top right of the button bracket, but I didn’t compare the new screen to the old one further to figure out where the second one *might* have been needed. So far, phone is restored, and I’ll only go back to place the screw if the phone ever acts up (or someone here comes on to warn me of certain doom). Thanks once again iFixit for the part, the tools, the video, the step-by-steps, and this community. Could not have done this without any of you!

I’ve tried to take out the screws for around half an hour and failed, put everything back together and ordered a new set of tools. Started the whole process again today only to get stuck here again. I just can’t get them out.

I've had one flex fail (even though not physically damaged), by lifting the heat shield up and removing the connector that way. The result is the phone does not register properly with button, and Touch ID doesn't work. I now use a fine point tweezer to get in under the metal plate on the rear of the connector with a bit of heat. This seems to be the least invasive way of doing it. You need to check Touch ID is registering after each screen change due to the possibility of Error 53.

In my opinion, using a razor blade is extremely risky. In fact, I won't even use a spudger, because I find this cable to be very fragile. Here's what I do: Firstly, heat an iOpener in the microwave for 30 seconds, remove it for 2 minutes, then return it to the microwave for a further 30 seconds so it's extra warm. Secondly, lay the iOpener flat directly on top of the connecter for 90 seconds to loosen the adhesive. Thirdly, move the iOpener out of the way, then with one hand, lift the metal plate from the top end (closest to the front facing camera) to a 45 degree angle, or just enough so with your other hand you can fit your thumb under the flex cable towards the bottom of the metal plate. Now you want to grip the flex cable with your thumb underneath and your index finger on top as close as possible to the connector itself, then slowly and carefully lift both the plate and flex cable simultaneously towards the bottom of the phone. I found this video to be helpful: http://youtu.be/mh-cbErzGNo

I just did my first swap ever on a 6, and I had the phone powered back on and all components tested within about 3 minutes. I've changed hundreds of 4, 5, 5c, and 5s though, so I'm sure that experience helped. I didn't have to disconnect the battery at all, just very careful with how I removed everything. If you can afford it, GET THE FIX KIT. I've got a whole container of leftover tools from other screens and I didn't even touch them. I used the new fix kit and it helped so much. Transplanting the old home button was a breeze, nothing torn at all. RTFM like I did, and anyone should be able to swap any of these components without an issue.

Removing this cable is rather tricky if you follow the instructions in the manual. I think i repaired about 20 iPhone 6's by now, all using a metal spudger or a boxcutter knife. How? Gently lift black ribbon as seen on the pictury, starting on the left side as seen on the picture. Once you see the small metal connector, which is attached with a mild adhesive, stop pulling. Gently wedge the metal spudger under the connector, starting at the bottom left. With a mild pressure the connector will simply "pop off". If it doenst work with the spudger, try using a boxcotter, just be careful you put it under the connector and not between the cable and the connector.

During this step, I did mistakenly disconnect the cable from the metal connector underneath. However, I was able to remove the metal connector using a spudger and transfer it to the new screen along with the home button cable assembly. Fortunately, touch ID still worked, in addition to all standard home button functions.

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I do think it would be great if iFixIt could add a note about this metal connector during this step as it plays a very important role.

I did the same thing! How do you reconnect the metal plate???

Watch out for the metal under the connector! I speant 15 min trying to get the connector unstuck and I didn't even realize you were supposed to remove the metal as well and leave it attached. Ripped my cable because of this (luckily it was an already-broken practice phone). Very important!

Don't try to use a spudger behind the metal plate. It is extremely difficult as you can't see if you really could reach the metal under the connector. I ripped the cable doing this way! You better try to reach under the metal from the bottom of connector (not from behind the metal plate!)

SUPER HELPFUL! Very much appreciated. Thank you!

It’s very important to note that you want to remove the small metal plate underneath the black cable. Use the tab on the black cable near the edge of the phone, gently pull it up until you see the metal plate, then pry underneath the metal plate, and it will just pop up if you put something very small behind it (I used a set of very pointy tweezers).

The littel tab of black to the left of the tiny brass connector is a pull tab to aid in removal. As above yo can lift that end (use a thin blade as necessary) and that will help pull the connector loose.

Start pulling off the side tab with a razor blade thin spudger, such as an iSesamo. To peel the main connector I found the easiest way was to tilt the front panel forward and look inside from the other end, enough to discover that there a metal plate right beneath the connector. You want to place the iSesamo right beneath that metal plate and the whole thing comes off.

I was able to remove the cable with heat and put it back on the new display. It did not stick so good, but the cable was connected with the one from the Home Button.

However the TouchID didn’t work but the home buttone does. Is this cable responsible for both and if so is it possible that only the TouchID wires in it have some damage/issue? Thanks for the answers